The Eureka Event of Excellence – Vangelis ‘live’ in Rotterdam

Today exactly 35 years ago, my dear friend Stefan Posthuma and myself were witness to synth virtuoso Vangelis performing ‘live’ in Rotterdam. Back then, we created a so-called real-time article about these events, which is featured below (in more or less its original and sometimes perhaps slightly infantile form – hey, we were around 20+ back then!). If you can’t follow the many in-jokes, don’t feel guilty… just like I don’t feel guilty about spelling/grammar mistakes that I made but might have missed when editing my below stream-of-consciousness blathering.

Here goes… Like Samuel L. Jackson would say in “Jurassic Park” (years after everything below happened): “Hold on to your butts!”

Around April (1990), an interesting rumour went round: The Greek synthesizer virtuoso Vangelis was supposed to be performing live at the Maasvlakte in Rotterdam, The Netherlands.
To mere mortals like myself this was of course a delight of cosmic proportions. Stefan and me had been unable to buy tickets for Jean Michel Jarre’s “Docklands” concert. I had driven past Paris on July 14th 1990, completely unaware of Jarre’s performance there that evening. After two of these gigantic screw-ups of fate, the fact that Vangelis was coming to the Netherlands to perform was unbelievably exciting.
Unfortunately, nothing was really certain about this. The date was shrouded in mists, and the location was pretty vague as well.
Then, in May, the date became certain. It was supposed to take place in the night of June 18th on June 19th 1991. The location was still supposed to be something called the Maasvlakte, which is a giant slab of sandy beach at the mouth of the river Maas. The occasion was supposed to be the xth birthday of the city of Rotterdam.
Slowly but certainly, radio programmess began to mention this historic event. It was supposed to be a laser show with music and all that stuff, the kind that one normally expects from a showman the likes of Jarre.
Only after a special information telephone number had been initiated was it possible to find out exactly what would happen. The concert date had been correct, but the location turned out to be at quite a different place: The Leuverhaven in the centre of Rotterdam, along the river Maas. The concert was supposed to start at 8 PM, with special guest star the Rotterdam Philharmonic Orchestra (yawn). At 11 PM, Vangelis’ performance would start, and this would go on until 1 AM.
The occasion was the opening of a technical manifestation called “Eureka”, which had something to do with 18 countries working together to beat the Japanese and American competition on various fields of science and engineering.
The day after I found this out, I took the 19th of June off. I knew that I would not want to go to work that day. I knew I would want to ponder over the past experience – and sleep long.
Below you will be able to witness the Eureka Experience by means of a real-time article that has been recorded provisionally on an Aiwa Walkman (previously known as the headache obliteration device).

So everything starts on June 18th 1991, in Utrecht, the Netherlands.

18:00

Stefan and I are supposed to meet at this time, but as usual our dear master editor is late. He has been known to have trouble finding my place, and this is only about the fourth time he visits me since I live at my new address in Utrecht.
I have taken a shower very quickly in order to be finished by 18:00. Had I known about his delay, I would have done it more leisurely.

18:30

Heavens! Miracles still happen. Stefan just arrived. He says he encountered a traffic jam just outside Utrecht, but I tend to disbelieve him.|
We gather together some gear (a Walkman to record all this, two cameras to photograph the event and some books to read in the train).

18:45

We’re leaving my place. We have gathered all the gear we need (including some we don’t, like some delicious liquorice). We descend the stairs (I live on the fourth floor) and head towards the bus.
Unfortunately we see the bus leave directly in front of us, beyond reach of cry or quick dash.

18:48

We decided to head for a junkfood store, where we are now. We get some ‘Magnum’ ice (the best ice cream to be introduced since ages). We leave the place again for the next bus stop – where other bus lines stop as well, thus increasing our chance to get to Utrecht Central Railway Station as fast as possible.

19:15

It is remarkably warm, even though the sun has barely been visible throughout the day. We are now standing at the platform where within a couple of minutes from now a train should leave for Rotterdam Central Station.

19:20

The train has arrived and we have entered it. There are more people in the train that we strongly suspect of going to the Vangelis concert.
I take out “Stranger in a Strange Land” by Robert Heinlein which I’ve been reading for two or three days already. Stefan takes out a new Terry Pratchett book, “Good Omens”.
We read.

19:58

It is quite busy at Rotterdam Central Station where we have now arrived. Pamphlets are stuck to the walls and other places announcing the Vangelis concert, how to get there, and a list of extra trains for people that would like to get back home as well.
There are mixed emotions as the pamphlets state that Vangelis will only play for about one hour, and that the whole thing will stop at midnight. Many people (including Stefan and me) grow a bit disappointed.
What’s the use in setting up something as ginormous as this when it only takes about an hour?
There are quite a lot of people. Even some of the rugged looking heavy metal freaks wearing Sepultura T-shirts I had seen in the train now stand gazing at Vangelis Concert pamphlets.

20:01

Getting from Rotterdam Central to the location of Leuverhaven is more difficult than one might think – especially if one is an alien in Rotterdam.
We do not succeed in locating the metro initially, and therefore set out in search for a tram or a bus. Buses, however, are either reserved or completely full. We missed the tram to the Leuverhaven.
We are not the only ones trying to find means of transportation. There are a couple of hundred people. Chaos and anarchy seems to rule!
Many youths are here. I guess all intelligent people of Holland are present in Rotterdam now (or will be before Vangelis starts playing).

20:07

We succeeded in locating the metro (Rotterdam’s tube system) anyway. It is very busy, and there is a low murmur of people. Here and there, I catch the words ‘concert’ or ‘Vangelis’. It appears that we are in the right train.
It is getting even warmer here.

20:14

Someone farted. The smell is made worse by the warmth and the small confinement in which we happen to be stacked together with a lot of people. I try to locate someone that’s inconspicuously studying the ceiling, but I do not succeed. The farter remains unspotted (and unpunished).

20:15

After one minute of stench and suffocation, the train stops at Leuverhaven.
We have arrived at the location, and are eager to get our of warmth and this disgusting smell.
Hundreds of people are getting out with us. There are some pretty artistic ones among them. Someone is wearing a hat. A very narrow flight of stairs pours the huge amount of people out on the street.

20:20

Stefan just bought some Coke. Blasphemy! It is lukewarm and seems partly de-carbonated.
When we left the metro station we immediately beheld a huge four-star hotel called “Inntel” (yes, one ‘n’ more than that crappy brand of processors). We reckoned we could get a room there, overlooking the river and the concert that would soon happen. We dismissed the idea because of financial reasons.
We had heard that Vangelis would be performing on a giant pontoon attached to two cranes, but we couldn’t spot anything of it so far. There was no equipment to be seen, either. I have to say that it surely doesn’t look as if a quarter of a million people will be here soon (this amount of people was the official estimate mentioned on the radio).
If it weren’t for the Cola-and junkfood-vendors one would think nothing is going on here.
The definite proof that something is happening here is someone that is walking around selling booklets (‘programmes’). They could 10 Dutch guilders and are about 10 pages thick (i.e. f.cking expensive).
We look a Pitbull Terrier up its ass. Police are everywhere.
We have seen something in the middle of the river, and there’s a lot of people on the other side. We guess we have to cross the river Maas…
(Note: We will call the river ‘Maas’, but officially it’s called ‘Nieuwe Maas’ which translates to English as ‘New Maas’. End of note.)

20:22

Yeah! We just bought some Eureka Vangelis T-Shirts! I got a spiffin’ white one with the date written on it (the historian in me urged me to), and Stefan bought a blackened one.

20:24

The cross-the-river quest is certain as we proceed Eastwards on the Northern boundary of the Maas. Huge things have been built up at this side, preventing people from seeing anything in the direction of the river, so it is quite sure that the best view will be obtained from the other side.
Huge spots and laser thingies are located on top of giant metal contraptions.
Helicopters are flying to and fro.
The skyline of Rotterdam is dominated by three identical appartment buildings, from which’ windows one is bound to have one hulluva view. We went to probe for the existence of some distant relatives who happen to live there – so that we can visit them and get the horniest of views.
As we see the spots and lasers, however, we realise that projections of colour will be made on those buildings, effectively preventing people (including distant relatives) looking from their windows from seeing anything but a blinding light.
Drop dead, relatives!
Another chopper flies over. It sense it must be equipped with a camera. I wave to it. I am now maybe on television!
The most important things currently pervading my vision are lots of junkfood vendors and lots of police officers (on horse, on foot, in cars, in buses…you name it).

20:28

We pass a small plastic dome where some musicians are playing music. I suspect they are the Marines Band of the Royal Netherlands Navy, judging by their striped uniforms and headwear. They effectively succeed in not leaving any impression at all. Not many people bother to watch them for more than a couple of moments.
We have discovered that the major difficulty in getting anywhere here is the (excuse my words) horse shit. We find ourselves stumbled upon a Police Horse Excreta Evasion Quest of formidable dimensions!
Some strange looking persons are selling plastic with air in it. We are now located directly behind what appears to be the stage, which we can’t see as it is hidden behind those metal contraptions with the spotlights and lasers on them. We experience a bit of warmth flowing through us by the sheer realisation that somewhere behind all that metal is someone named Vangelis who just happens to make great music that can be put on small silvery discs for us mortals to listen to.
We pass a Mobile Unit bus of the Police. Stefan is staggered to see it’s got a massive eight antennas – more than his Kenwood audio equipment!
The smell of junkfood and unions litters our nostrils. Apart from having to evade all that horse excreta, we also have to watch out not to trip over provisional sewers and loads of power leads that are scattered in a seemingly careless way across the street.

20:30

I have just seen a Gard clone (i.e. a clone of Gard Eggesbø Abrahamsen, an Insanely Witty Looking Nutty Norwegian we happen to know)! He (or, rather, IT) is located in a huge orange, selling (remarkably) orange juice.
Stefan, happily munching a quite typically Dutch thing we call ‘appelflap’ (apple cake or somethun’), states that it ain’t a Gard clone but a Frøystein clone – for the person located in the huge orange does not look insanely witty.

20:32

As the bridge draws nigh we pass half a dozen of inflatible lavatories, made for the purpose of allowing people to empty their bladders and intestines.
We also see that there are, as a matter of fact, two bridges crossing the river Maas. One is quite near, and it’s a railway bridge. The other one is further away, and of course that’s the one we need to go to.
Silent cops on high horses look down upon us, as if scanning the crowd for radical elements. The only things that seem to tower above them, except for the Rotterdam skyline, are the provisional television transmission towers that are scattered all over the place.
It is slowly becoming difficult to comprehend (let alone describe) the amount and the variety of people present here. Fat, thin, blind, white, black, foreign, Dutch, ugly, beautiful, heavy metal, classic…the oddest folk are walking around here.
The only type of humans missing here seem to be Nutty Norwegians.

20:36

We are now actually crossing the river, walking across the bridge. The atmosphere is throbbing with suspense, and I think I would not have been surprised to see everyone holding their breath.
A demonstration of paratroopers is now being performed. Some Dutch Navy paratroopers are trying to land on a small artificial island in the river. A narrator’s voice echoes along the boulevard, keeping the people up to date to everything that’s been done, now and again explaining procedures common in the Dutch navy.
And….yes! One of the paratroopers landed in the water. The audience roars with laughter, giving forth a hesitant applause.
I have to suppress my paranoia when several police cars drive by with flashing lights, frantically trying to direct the remaining traffic on the bridge. There’s people everywhere, effectively cutting off the entire island in the Maas.
(Note: Just like Paris, Rotterdam has an island in the river that splits it in two. It is on this island that we will witness the concert).
Later I heard that 30,000 people were on that bridge during the concert, all trying to catch a glimpse (but probably not quite succeeding).
Thirty-thousand. If they would all jump up and down on that bridge in phase it would crash… It is at such a time when you realise the true potential power of the masses, if only they would unite…
But I will cut this crap short right now.
It does give one a sense of Purpose walking here. There are thousands of people that all have the same destination, the same interest.
It looks like bloody war with all those choppers in the air, people running and cars trying frantically to get out of this mess.

20:43

We were innocently walking west once having crossed the river when a bus passed us by. Behind one of its windows we saw a laughing face and a waving hand: Relayer of the Quartermass Experiment!
(Note: I have recently become a member of the Quartermass Experiment, a rather cult group in Holland. Other members are Eloy, The Mind, The Nutty Snake and this chap Relayer. The weekend after, we were to do a Home Vid subtitled “QX on a Quest for Inspiration”).
The bus stops at a bus stop, and out of it pours a seemingly continuous stream of people. The stream contains all members of QX except for Eloy (the only one I haven’t seen yet), as well as some other reknown Dutch of Aenigmatica and Crush of MCA (‘the one to ritually insult’, see ST NEWS Volume 6 Issue 1).

“Hahaha!”
Relayer quote (upon me discovering Eloy is not present)

Small choppers fly over low, as if trying to witness any possible conspiracies being concocted down here. A small Lada nearly runs us over (after nearly choking us with exhaust gasses) as we go down to the boulevard where we intend to find a place to stand and witness.
The entire Public Relations section of Aenigmatica (henceforth to be called Blaenigmatica) seems to be here (which is strange, as this group is as dead as a Dodo).

“Wotzat, Aenigmatica?”
Relayer quote

20:59

We found a relatively OK position from which to witness the Eureka Event of Excellence, at approximately 300 yards east of the spot directly opposite the pontoon that is hanging suspended on two huge cranes.

“No it is two and a half minutes to nine.”
Crush quote

Throughout the Event, Crush was to state things like that when I mentioned the current time in the Aiwa walkman. This is a typical description of this lowlife kind of person, who is very daft and exceedingly stupid altogether (so far the traditional insulting of Crush of MCA).

21:00

It is very busy here. Only when people standing before us decide it’s actually too busy and retreat are we able to advance valuable inches.

“We’ll have to stand here for three hours before all starts.”
Stefan quote

(Which altogether serves excellently to illustrate Stefan’s intelligence, directly proportional to his sense of direction when searching my humble abode in Utrecht, as the thing should start at 23:00)
Stefan is obviously quite incapable of doing simple maths by heart.
We have discovered quite an interesting sub-culture of little humans here. They emerge from between the legs of the people standing in front of us, with strange enthusiastic gleams in their little eyes. We strongly suspect them from either performing certain jobs or picking pockets, and we’re biased towards the latter opinion.
A regular Oliver Twist culture here in Rotterdam, right before our very eyes!
I decide to take a picture of them.

21:13

The whole afternoon the heavens had seemed bulging with dark clouds of rain and thunder, but nothing had actually come down (except for a damp warmth that makes your clothes sticky). But now, raindrops are happily falling on our heads.
Fortunately, The Nutty Snake possesses an umbrella that I eagerly use to cower away under.
(Note: I am becoming a bit thin on top already, and this might be due to acid rain)

21:23

People have succeeded in locating themselves on the roofs of the high houses behind us, facing the river. They probably have positively gorgeous views on everything, but unfortunately the owners have warned a rather mean looking cop.
That particular cop is now trying to convince them that it is actually a good idea to get down and try to catch a glimpse from the concert from ‘down there’ (we see him pointing down at us).
The crowd starts to yell abuse at the cop (something about a ‘hondelul’, which is a Dutch word I have no particular urge to translate).

21:30

I really hate beer. I like bitter, but that’s not available in Holland so I can safely assume I hate all Dutch beer.
But when someone belonging to Aen…sorry….Blaenigmatica is drinking beer right before your nose and when you realise you have been so stupid as to not bring any liquid with you, a sudden craving for this horsepiss alternative starts to dawn.

21:40

The Parachute demonstration team is now involved in demonstrating the principle of (quote) ‘an awesomely long free fall’. After fifteen meagre seconds, however, the parachutes unfold and the crowd, again, yells abuse. Obviously, these demonstrations will not significantly increase enlistings in the near future.
Stefan just now discovered what he suspects is an undercover cop. He bases this upon the fact that this particular person carries a scanner by means of which he seems to be communicating with someone.
Another person who seems obviously to be associated with this undercover cop has loads of more Dutch beer.
We have also discovered that the Blaenigmatica chaps do not merely have beer. They also have rum and cola! We are craving.
It is getting darker, by the way. In the west, far away, we see the smoke of the oil refineries, drifting up into clouds that grow ever darker. More helicopters course through the sky.

21:42

After over a quarter of an hour’s talking, the cop on the roof decided that these youngsters cannot simply be talked into going down. Instead, he decided to employ some more drastic measures. He is now actually chasing a couple of them across the roofs. Of course, his older bones soon lack the vigour present in those of the youths, and he decided to be content with the fact that they are now at least off the roof he’s standing on.

21:45

The Marines are now demonstrating the agility of their helicopters (which are called ‘Lynx’, actually). One of them just flew backwards, i.e. ‘moonwalked’. The pilots waved at us. We now feel very happy indeed. Nothing today can go wrong in a way that will destroy our moods.
We also find out that helicopters are actually ‘happy omnidirectional people transporters’.

21:50

The Lynx helicopters have retreated to a safe distance when suddenly the air is filled with machine gun shots, and the ground thunders with heavy explosions.
A demonstration of the Special Aid Squadron (or something), where a simulated hijack is being disemboweled (or something).
It’s really awfully realistic except for the smoke caused by the bombs, which is bright green, orange and red.

“The air above Kuwait is ablaze…”
The Nutty Snake quote (in a very heavy voice)

This really makes memories of news broadcasts covering the initial bits of Operation Desert Storm fling back to mind. Shots are reverberating between the buildings on both sides of the river.

“Aaaargghhh!”
Stefan quote

21:53

“The undercover cop’s got a Kenwood scanner!”
Stefan quote

21:56

We have just discovered another subculture of humans. This time, they transport themselves on wheelchairs, gently urging people to part so as to allow them to move forward to a spot where they can see everything without having to use something akin a periscope device.
They remind usto take inflatible wheelchairs with us next time, as these seem to comprise a front seat ticket!

22:10

One of the Blaenigmatica members, who can call himself the owner of a top secret Panther Development Guide, just told me that it (i.e. the Panther) is said not to happen. So much for all the rumours involving the supposed launch of this miraculous game console by Atari. He did mention that they are now planning a true colour games console that is non-68000-based.
(Note: A recent issue of the mag “ZERO” revealed more intimate information about this Panther, but no word about it not happening)
Isn’t it curious? One of the first people to develop software on the Konix games console was Jeff Minter. Konix didn’t happen. He was also one of the first people to have a Panther Development Package…
Let’s observe a moment’s silence in Jeff’s name.

22:13

Aren’t the Blaenigmatica chappies a very nice bunch? They have just offered us some rum-cola (Pepsi, but OK). This really tastes OK.
The narrator, whose voice has been present omnipotently throughout the time we have so far spent along the river Maas, mentions that the demonstration team often ‘does it in July and August’

“They don’t only do it in July and August, but also in boats.”
Crush quote (well, a not too stupid remark of his this time)

Triggered by something unknown to mankind, Stefan starts singing Dutch songs.

22:30

AArrrggghhh! Some pure rum surely beats the hell out of rum- coke. The rum is made by Bootz. It’s cheap but better than nothing (or, indeed, better than anything without alcohol).
A gentle warmth spreads itself through my bowels. As I haven’t eaten much since breakfast (apart from the liquorice) it goes straight to my head…

22:31

An eerie light is spreading across the boulevard, created by the remains of the setting sun and the first street lanterns that pop on.

“Ik ben het er helemaal mee eens.”
“I completely agree.”
Innocent girl quote

“Helemaal prachtig hoor, helemaal te gek.”
“Completely brilliant, far out.”
Another girl quote

It’s very strange. Whenever someone is seen chatting down into some kind of electronic device other people get the tendency to be immortalised as well. The above quotes are a witness to that fact (as well as some other ones to follow).

22:38

There’s 22 minutes to go until The Event will start. It just started to rain a bit, but this happens to occur simultaneously with an old steamboat passing by.
Promptly, the crowd starts off with a deafening bit of Sinterklaas singing.
(Note: In Holland we have a legend of a chap called Sinterklaas or Saint Nicolaas, who has his birthday on December 5th and who gives all little children presents. He lives in Spain, and he comes to us with a steamboat filled with ‘zwarte Pieten’ (his black helpers) and presents. He doesn’t give all the presents himself now – instead parents tend to buy them and give them on ‘pakjesavond’ – ‘package evening’, December 4th. Dutch children under the age of 10 still ‘believe in Saint Nicolaas’. After that age, someone usually reveals to them that the presents have always been given by the parents. They usually start to cry when hearing this revelation).
It is now getting really dark. Many lights pop on everywhere, which makes this an experience for which there is, unfortunately, no other description rather than ‘eldritch’ (sorry Stefan).

22:50

Ten minutes separate us from The Eureka Event of Excellence. The Public Address System already stresses the fact that people should not be sitting on or in front of spotlight or lasers.
People are constantly ‘waving’ (like the thing you do in football stadiums with several thousand people). The air is tense. A unique feeling of unity coarses through my veins.
I decide to be ridiculous and ask a girl what she thinks of Voorburg (which had nothing to do with Eureka or Vangelis but which happens to be the place where two QX members live and where we are supposed to go and do a QX home vid’ next weekend).

“Wat vind je van Voorburg?”
“What do you think of Voorburg?”
“Wie?!”
“Who?!”
“Voorburg.”
“Voorburg.”
“Waar ken ik dè vinde?”
“Where can I find that?”
“Naast Den Haag.”
“Next to The Hague.”
“Vin ik ook prachtig hoor, ja. Ik ben er al drie keer geweest.”
“I like that too, yeah. I’ve been there three times.”

22:55

A quick glimpse over my shoulders reveals an empty roof. Empty, that is, except for the lone police officer that has earlier tried to get all kids off it (and who now seems to have succeeded).
A very smart chap, obviously.
I decide to ask some more silly things to that particular female responsible for the awesomely intelligent answers earlier. This time I ask what she thinks of Bolsward, the town where Plantiac Vieux is made which is located at approximately 150 kilometres’ distance from Voorburg.

“Wat vind je van Bolsward?”
“What do you think of Bolsward?”
“Ook mooi. Dat zal er wel vlak bij legge of nie?”
“Beautiful also. I suppose that lies next to it, no?”
“Nee dè leg dur nie vlak bij.”
“No that doesn’t lie next to it.”
(End of rather silly questions and equally silly answers – for now)

23:00

The time has arrived, but the Master seems not to.
Crush has absorbed too much alcohol, and according to some of his friends (I thought he didn’t have any, but I guess I was mistaken) he then usually starts to talk in a rather silly way with any girl he can find in the vicinity.
He is doing so now, with some not particularly impressive looking females standing behind us.

“…and then there are at least 38…”
Crush quote (very partial)

When he notices we’re eavesdropping, he loses track of what he was saying. I decide to take over.

“What do you think of Plantiac?”
“Never heard of it.”

Obviously, Dutch females are dim-witted to say the least (well, at least most of ’em seem to).

23:01

It is a well known fact that people who are drunk state that they are not.

“I am not drunk.”
Crush quote

23:03

We have just concocted a bit of a joke. It might not mean much to the foreign (i.e. non-Dutch) readers among you, but it’s something along the lines of “He is over time – he must have f.cked without a spiral!”
Ho ho ho.
I think Stefan actually came up with that one, though it might just as well have been me.

23:05

“We want Vangelis DIRECT!”
Ho ho ho again.
The Nutty Snake (“The Snotty Bastard!” Crush quote) just retrieved some English Crackers from an ominous looking bag. He is really a very nice person and gives them to all of us before even thinking about eating them himself.
They taste disgusting, however. They are as dry as a Dune and don’t taste like much.
We start to have second thoughts about TNS’ generosity.

23:10

It seems like Vangelis is aiming to treat us at a completely innovative and awesomely wicked kind of concert, i.e. a virtual one. It is getting really dark now, and the crowd is getting slightly noisy. They’d better get kicking, or the city is going to have a riot on its hands!

23:12

Something is happening now! Deep, throbbing, subsonic sounds shudder the people and the ground on which they stand. It seems that the 800,000 watts that are said to be present here are finally getting into gear.
Fourteen cameras are jumping into position. Finally, the event that has been built up with the help of 1200 people seems to have started.
On the other side of the river, that we now behold while keeping our breaths and kicking everyone who doesn’t, there is total darkness.
A boat appears on the river, in front of the stage. It is lit by hundreds of lights in multiple colours. It’s one of those steam boats one usually associates with the river Mississippi.
Then the boat releases the stage to our sights again, at which moment a multitude of firework explosions light the sky.
The Eureka Event of Excellence has started. It is 23:13.
As we had seen before, the stage is located on a large pontoon suspended between two huge cranes. Lights are aimed at it, revealing a Greek temple not entirely unlike Metallica’s 1989 “Damaged Justice Tour” stage props. In that temple, somewhere, is a man playing synthesizer.
Synthesized sounds find their way to the audience. It’s the song “Chariots of Fire” with an alternative, extended intro.
My knees almost give way. Vangelis is here. In Holland. I am looking at the Master, even though he is but less than an indistinguishable speck in the far distance. Emotions crash through my veins. This is simply devastatingly impressive.
On the river Maas, small rubber boats now move in front of us, each of them containing someone holding a flag of a country that is member of the Eureka initiative (see notes about Eureka further down in this article).
When the real music started, one thing became very obvious: Those 800,000 watts out there were not enough. We could recognise the music, but we didn’t feel it.

23:16

“Chariots of Fire” has given way to “Spiral”. Lasers have been drawing symbols on one of the most prominent buildings of the Rotterdam skyline – mostly names of countries and their geographical outlines, and keywords associated with the concept of Eureka.
Everything is slightly impressive. Really.

23:21

It was said, before the concert, that Vangelis had composed new music for this event – but it is getting obvious that he hasn’t, and that he is now treating us to some of his ‘all time best’. Although the second bit of “Spiral” was conveniently skipped, he’s now gone over to “Other side of Antarctica” (i.e. “Antarctica 7”). This is some bloody good music! I never thought I would ever get to hear this music performed ‘live’!
He’s playing neatly as well. It all sounds identical to the CD versions…

23:25

God damn it! He’s playing a song off f.cking China (“Chung Kuo”, but without the bombastic intro)! This is the kind of stuff that really urges the beholder to weep with joy. What “Roads to Madness” is to Queensrÿche, “Far Beyond the Sun” to Malmsteen, “Fade to Black” to Metallica and “Dead” to Napalm Death (well…kind of), is “Chung Kuo” to Vangelis.
Fire extinguishing boats are ejaculating huge amounts of water high in the air, moving to and fro in front of Vangelis’ sonic temple. It is obvious that the Master wishes to outdo Jarre: Not only lasers and light, but interactive things like boats as well! Beams of light cleverly colour the water sprays, creating a fantastic effect.

23:30

The boats have ceased ejaculating, and the last tones of “Chung Kuo” are dying off in a roaring applause. Some of the water that those fire extinguishing boats have launched into the air is now submitting itself to gravity on top of the crowd (i.e. us). A drizzle of tiniest droplets.
Oh no!
“Glorianna”!
He just started playing the only song I always skip on the “Direct” CD: “Glorianna”, featuring a female voice not unlike opera (at this concert, the voice was done by Markella Marziano).

“God no! Opera!”
Virtually everybody quote

“That’s actually my favourite song off that CD.”
Relayer quote

(Note: Relayer is reknown for his rather odd musical taste. He also thinks Jarre’s “Magnetic Fields 5” is rather neat. Need I say more?)
I guess Vangelis would have made many more fans here if he would have refrained from playing this shit!
The trains that pass over the bridge across the Maas (remember the bridge we wanted to cross but couldn’t, resulting in us having to cross the river using a next bridge? That’s the one I mean) move remarkably slow. Little faces can be seen stuck to the windows – people trying to grasp a couple of glimpses of an event they’ll miss all the rest of.

23:35

“Pulstar”.
Everybody knows this song, though most people probably never realised it was done by Vangelis (in Holland, Vangelis music is often used as background sonix for documentaries and several sports events, but one never gets to know who it was done by).
It is getting rainy now. Very rainy, actually. We can’t get out the umbrella, however, ’cause that would spoil everything for the people behind us (aren’t we a social bunch?).
The lasers get an extra dimension of magic with the rain drops falling through them.

“Wow!”
“Ah yeah!”
Crush quote (he mentioned this quote quite a lot)

The boulevard at the sides of the stage explodes into seas of red and orange! Explosions defy the music. Brilliant! Brilliant!

23:39

The orgy of fireworks and lasers has died down a bit. Vangelis is now playing “Mask 2”, assisted by a 400-people choir standing in the back of his temple of sound. I do not have the “Mask” CD myself because it features too much vocals to my liking, but I am revising my opinion about this CD now.
The rain has virtually stopped (i.e. it tries hard not to be seen but fails to succeed in not being felt).
A girl behind us tries to see something by hopping up and down. One of the people that came with QX, that I didn’t yet know and that happens to be named “The Dungeon Master”, tells her to flap her hands. “That may help.”
I was about to explain the girl the knack to casually throwing oneself at the ground and accidentally missing it, but decided to refrain from doing so.

23:43

The second really not too good bit of the concert: “Italian Song” off the album “Private Collection” is being played, and this entails the presence of a male singer by the name of Jon Anderson (singer of Yes, who I think can’t sing although many people disagree – including all other QX members).
We can’t see the man, but the presence of his voice is enough. More than enough.
A large crane that is located to the west of the stage takes water out of the river, gently letting it fall back in a game of light and water. Very impressive. Very artistic. Very outdoing Jarre.
The only term that comes to mind here is “wow” (in spite of Jon’s ‘singing’).

23:45

“Kinematica”, the third song off “Antarctica”!
This is another one of those songs everybody knows from some kind of documentary or sports programme. ‘Movement’ is the motto of this song, and this is obvious as the railway bridge is crossed by a steam locomotive, whistling. The steamboat has joined in again as well, and…even some large white’n’green helicopters appear above the stage!
A multi-vehicle event indeed!
Some of the Blaenigmatica beings are spreading around more beer.
So far I had been jealous of Tim and Dave of The Lost Boys because they had seen Jean Michel Jarre perform at Docklands. I may not have seen Jarre now, but I have seen the Master of Synth instead, the Bearded One!

23:56

Magnificent fireworks spread out above the awe-stricken faces of what must be about half a million people witnessing this event, like jungle vines of fire leaping down from the sky in what seems very much like a finale, during the end of another song off “Mask” – “Mask part 5”. More fountains of fire seem to emerge from the river itself. Explosions sound.
Smoke is the only thing we can see now as the sounds die off again, leaving an applause to be the only audible thing.

“This is the stuff you can tell your children in law about…er…as well as your grandchildren!”
Crush quote

“Aaarrgghh! Napalm Death!”
Someone quote (could have been me, as I was kinda tipsy)

“Great!”
Stefan quote

This surely seems to be the finale. In that case, the concert has only taken three quarters of an hour, which is a disappointing amount of fourth dimension if you ask me (or any of us).

23:57

Well, it turned out not quite to be the finale yet, for “Hymn” has started (a song off “Opera Sauvage”, that’s also present on the commercially more successful “Themes”).
This is far out, really. Endlessly awesome. Completely kicken (don’t even attempt to understand this if you’re not Dutch – sorry). I decide to ask some of the surrounding people for a reaction.

Q: “Please say something.”
A: “Oh no. I am not going to say anything.”

So far the reactions of the local populace.

00:00

As the songs (including Jon Anderson’s style of singing) have been really 100% identical to the CD, questions arose whether or not this was actually ‘live’ and, indeed, whether Vangelis was actually there and not just lying in the Greek sun estimating royalties.
Relayer swears that this version of “Hymn” is different from the album version, and I’ll be damned if he ain’t right there.

“Hij loop te liege hij loop te liege!
(“He’s lying he’s lying!”)
Strange female quote

The entire Greek temple, by the way, is now slowly being de- roofed. At least, the roof has lifted and is now turning its inside towards the audience. It reveals a giant ‘Sigma’ symbol, the character that has curiously been selected as the symbol of ‘Eureka’ even though any Greek persons will wonder why. Or maybe Application Systems Heidelberg has done some sponsoring here?

“It is not as beautiful as they say it is. They are exaggerating!”
That same strange female quote

Some of the Blasphematica humans (are they? ED.) are now finding it really difficult to control themselves, and they start throwing with beer. Someone in front of us, a particularly mean looking dude with tattoos, is looking at us and thinking whether or not to beat the hell out of us. After seeing some of those pitiable Blaenigmatica drunkards, he decided to be merciful and continues watching the opposite side of the river.
The rubber boats are coming by again. This must be the finale. Surely it must be. Yes it is. Even the ejaculating boats re- appear. The choir is audible. Flashy lights.
Everybody is making pictures as if lives are depending on it – including myself. Let’s hope they’ll contain something recognisable…
Everything’s dark and red. Yeah!
Another orgasm of fireworks lowers itself down on all of us. It looks like at least two dozen deities are having a ball up there, really. This is ultimately impressive – the kind of stuff even cameras with a mega-large angle lens cannot cope with.

“F.ckin’ A man…”
Stefan quote

00:05

After three minutes of sheer nothingness (except for some miscellaneous audience noises) the end seems to have arrived. So the Eureka Event of Excellence has taken 51 minutes after all. The ‘thanks to’ are appearing on one of the large buildings, written in green laser light.
We are now thinking of retreating to some kind of bar. We’re all dying for something to quench our thirst.
Let’s pray and chant, for one particular nerve cell in the back of our eyes might have been triggered for a nanosecond by a photon that recoiled from Vangelis!

00:11

We want to have a drink, but it’s kinda difficult to move here, as quite a lot of people are trying to move in all kinds of directions (about 27) at the same time (makes me think of a future Jez San game).

“Koning zak in muzijkland.”
Stefan quoteth (God knows what he means with it)

Some people are whistling their head off: Not everybody is entirely satisfied as it all was a bit short to their liking. Well it was kinda short, and I still think they could easily have made it two hours with all those preparations having been done.

00:13

Quite an extraordinarily loud applause suddenly bursts forth from a surprisingly large part of the audience. An encore maybe? I swirl around to see what they’re all getting excited about. It turns out to be a window of a house that had been behind us: Someone is switching the light off and on repeatedly there, causing a personal high definition laser show.
Menacingly interesting.

00:25

Before this I had thought the mass exodus of people moving from the non-weekend to the weekend location of the ST NEWS International Christmas Coding Convention had been quite something.
Well, let me tell you that it is utterly dwarfed by what we’re caught up in here. The streets are entirely crowded with people that all want to go home and really don’t give a damn what the other quarter of a million people want. The thing that surprises me most is that they are not yet walking on top of each other.
From the air, I imagine it must look a lot like an ants’ nest that has just been uprooted by an anarchic aardvark.
A fat faced First Aid person looks at us threateningly from the window of a Red Cross van. Nothing much seems to have happened during the concert, so that he now just wants to head home, too. But with this mass of people trying to go everywhere he might still have some work to do before being able to call it a day!

00:28

The bridge, above us now, is filled with people. It’s a miracle it doesn’t collapse! The bridge is so full that one would expect people to drop from its sides by the dozens. Miraculously, nothing like it happens.
Ah. The steam engine crosses the river again over the railway bridge, whistling gayly.
Everybody is standing still here. Not because of the steam engine but because it’s bloody difficult to get up here. We’re trying to get up to the bridge through a sideway, but it seems to be somewhat of a bottleneck (it is at times like this that I appreciate the power of the understatement – hail whoever thought of the English language).
Ah! I see now a dangerous descent that is causing the bottleneck. We’re crossing a building site, and loose sand is stopping everybody. There’s a 6 feet drop down into more sand, and on the other side there’s a 6 feet ascend that makes even the Chipping Steps (see ST NEWS Volume 4 Issue 4, the Microprose days) seem minor by comparison!
It seems that even more people are here now.
At least Stefan was able to help a seemingly gorgeous female do the ascend, so I reckon he’s happy now.

00:32

We are stuck. A tremendously thin path is winding up a side of the bridge. Hundreds of thousands of people have to go up there. It is all minddeafeningly imploding…

“Just a bit of a nuisance, actually.”
Crush quote (catching me using all those fancy words)

00:35

We found an alternative route, by passing under the bridge and trying to get up on the other side. Adrenaline pumps fiercely as we behold quite a steep ascend that’s covered with bricks. They are slippery, for everybody is trying to go up them, only to end up sliding down all the way again. However, it looks like we will have to make a fool of ourselves as well, as it seems to be the only way. The Alps are nothing compared to this, but we will not be set aback by this; we have conquered Norwegian mountains, so this can pose no serious threat to us!
But lo!
We find an alternative route to the alternative route: An even thinner path winding through bushes. It’s the kind of path you’d not like to walk when it’s dark and when you’re female. It’s got conveniently located bushes on both sides. Lucky for everybody, this little path is now filled with people, so individuals who are interested in lonely females after dark are required to keep a very low profile.

00:38

We are now on the bridge, crossing the river again. As we look around us, seeing a couple of thousand people around us, Stefan and myself suddenly realise we will never ever have as large an audience again for a Death Groan Competition.
It is Rotterdam, the Netherlands. It is June 19th 1991. It is almost twenty to one, AM.
Let’s do it.

“Waaaaaaarrrggggghhhhhh!!”
Stefan quote

“Hooooouuueieieiegghhhh!!”
Yours truly quote

00:40

We (i.e. Relayer, The Mind and myself) are singing the chorus of “Staying Alive” by the Bee Gees.
(Note: It has turned out to be somewhat of a tradition that, whenever we three meet, we sing this song at the highest possible pitch. We have even done this in a German swimming pool in Gütersloh during a time when only old folx swam, and they are rumoured still not to have forgotten)
When the chorus wears off, Stefan and me sing “One”.

00:51

Blaak Railway Station. Officially, we have to pay for using the train from Blaak to Rotterdam Central, but nobody bothers to (nobody is bound to check tickets at this time and with this amount of people anyway).
We climb the stairs towards the trains.

00:54

We are nearing the platform. We see a train but is is completely filled up. Er…it’s on the other side as well, heading for a completely different destination.
Sirens wail through the night, but nobody heeds them.

00:57

“Pweeeeeeeepp!”
Train quote

A train passes by on our platform, but it seems to transport oil and cattle only. We are not supposed to get in that are we?
No. It passes.

01:04

“Jill put her little daughter fifteen minutes under water – not to cause her any troubles but to see those funny bubbles.”
Relayer quote (pinched off a toilet door at the Technical University of Delft)

01:13

We have arrived at Rotterdam Central. The train was quite full, but not too full for us not to be able to use it (it would have to be pretty full for that!).
A notice says that the first train we can use from Rotterdam Central towards Utrecht leaves at 02:02, and it travels through Amsterdam (which can be compared with travelling from 7 to 4 over 12 on a clock).
We are now questing for an alternative train, painstakingly scanning the announcements plastered all over. Yet there seems scant hope for us.
Oh shit.
(Sound of something not unlike a herd of wildebeests passing by at an awesomely close distance)
We are barely in time to head for cover to avoid being trampled by about two hundred people that wanted to run from A to C with us being located at B.

01:22

Deafening joy (well at least for Stefan, The Mind and me, who are bound for Utrecht)!
The Station announcer mentions an extra train to Utrecht. It’s no intercity but we’re not likely to be choosy here.
Stefan is complaining about getting sleepy, but this is no wonder as he’s quite young actually.

01:30

We are located in the train. We even sit, which we had previously considered impossible due to the amount of people that all seem to want to go in the same direction.

01:55

We are now leaving, i.e. we’re leaving 7 minutes before that other train to Utrecht was supposed to leave. At least this one goes directly, i.e. not over Amsterdam.

02:45

The lights of Utrecht become visible through the windows. We are arriving at the place where we will be able to put our tired bodies to rest.

02:50

We have left the train. No buses are likely to be driving at this unholy hour, so we head directly for a cab.

02:55

We have arrived at Looplantsoen 50, Utrecht. The streets is completely silent apart from the sounds of a cab driving off and me using my keys on the lock. The key happens to be a cheap copy, so that it usually entails long trying on the lock. This time, things go unexpectedly quickly…
We’re in. The door wails a bone-shilling welcome.
And so we have come to the end of the real-time tape (annex article). I ask Stefan to say something.

“Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.”
Well, that was yet another prime example of the omnipotent things our beloved master editor tends to say.

A note about Eureka:

Launched in 1985 as an initiative of the French president Mitterrand, Eureka has already changed the face of research and development co-operation within Europe. It is an innovative tool helping Europe to master and exploit technologies which will prove decisive in the worldwide race for competitiveness and a better quality of Life.
Eureka interacts with companies and research institutes in Eureka member countries and helps them pool their resources in the development of leading edge technology.
At this moment the Eureka project portfolio includes nearly 400 projects which have a total estimated cost of more than 7.5 billion Ecu and involve some 2,000 participants. At the end of the present Netherlands’ Eureka chairmanship, at The Hague Ministerial Conference, approximately 100 new projects have been added.
Eureka’s members are: Austria, Belgium, Commission of the European Communities, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands (of course), Norway (!), Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom.
On June 18th in The Netherlands Eureka celebrated its fifth anniversary.
Isn’t it a tad strange that nobody actually heard of Eureka before this concert?

A note about Vangelis (or, rather, Evangelis Papathanassiou):

Vangelis’ career as a composer started aged four. At six, and without any formal training, he gave the first public performance of his own compositions. From then on, he has done numerous things connected to music. He started off in 1968 with a band called Aphrodite’s Child – with his brother Leo and a chap called Demis Roussos (Bwaaaarrggghhhh! Vomit! Yes, that one!). In 1972 he starts solo, and made albums some of which are Spiral, Albedo 0.39, Heaven and Hell, China, See you Later and Antarctica. The latter was an example of a film score he did, but he has done many more (Chariots of Fire was a film score as well). The album Themes, for example, contained the title tunes of Bladerunner, Missing and Mutiny on the Bounty.
If you want to get in touch with his best stuff, I advise you to get either Themes or his Greatest Hits, a CD that came out early June this year.
He has done some more albums with the Greek actress Irena Papas which are traditionally Greek – stuff one should listen to and then fervently decide not to buy. This is also the case with the stuff he did with Jon Anderson (3 albums), if you ask me. Beaubourg is pretty weird, too.
His most recent non-compilation CD is The City. It’s pretty good though not ‘typically Vangelis’, with some jazzy influences.

A note about Playback:

The day after the concert, I looked at it on vid’ as well. It was at that moment that a thing dawned upon my mind: The entire concert was playbacked, except for the intro to “Chariots of Fire” and the entire “Hymn” song. Probably, Vangelis played the lead bits on top of a tape. He possibly also added some percussion effect in ‘real time’. I came to this conclusion not only because the concert versions had been 100% identical to the album versions (including even the tiniest of sound effects), but also due to two things I saw on TV.
1) During “Pulstar”, it started to rain a lot. Transparent plastic was put on the keyboards by roadies, and at a certain stage the wind blew it on top of Vangelis’ hands. He then removed the piece of plastic while the music continued as if nothing happened!
2) Jon Anderson, even though he must surely have a load of experience, did not sing ‘in sync’ with the music. At times he was too late to open or close his mouth.
Only “Hymn” was definitely ‘live’, though still with a background tape. The lead voice had subtle differences, and it also sounded more like an acoustic flute rather than the synthesised thing (more like percussion) present on the album version.

So far the coverage of the Eureka Event of Excellence and some of its (more or less) associated topics.

DOA ’96

Exactly 30 years ago was the final day of Dynamo Open Air in Eindhoven. The Saturday headliner was Venom, the Sunday headliner was Slayer, and I was lucky enough to have a backstage pass so I could interview the Gods Rock’n’Roll, to whom I had laid down my soul more than a decade earlier. I shall spare you the details of many miscommunications that happened in the days leading up to the actual interview, but these could roughly be summarized by sharing that I had spent much of Saturday afternoon waiting at the wrong hotel, and then them having no time anywhere else that day. That Saturday had been busy for them indeed, as it also included their performance that was to be captured on the “The Second Coming” VHS (yes, VHS – no DVD version has been made available a.f.a.i.k.). Thankfully I had more or less run into Mantas that Saturday, so I managed to have the briefest of chats and got him to sign some CD liners I’d brought with me. After lots of trials and tribulations, thankfully, I found out Abaddon and Cronos were going to be backstage again to see Slayer on Sunday. So, after that show, I found myself in a dressing room with the Venom drummer and their bassist/vocalist.

But first I would like to take you on a little journey. A journey that started when my then classmate Jos Hermans exposed me to Venom for the first time. The date was 12 May 1984, and the song was “Warhead”. I think it’s hard to imagine the extent to which the energy, raw vocals and general ‘evil’ atmosphere of that track appealed to me. Gone were the days of me listening to pop, then Focus, then Kiss, then Saxon, and here started the time when no sane parent would consider my musical taste even halfway decent. The shock factor doubtlessly played an initial role, but after a few weeks I was irretrievably lost in the metal universe. “Black Metal” and “At War with Satan” were my faves, though I have to confess most of it was tape trading back then. I don’t think Messrs Lant, Dunn and Bray ever earned anything off me until I started buying CDs and DVDs. I was a nerd at the time, so my name in the Commodore 64 scene went from “Wizkid” to “Cronos”, and it hasn’t changed since ;-). Once I started digging Venom, the gates (of hell, I suppose) were wide open to allow Abattoir, Kreator, Destruction, Sodom, Nasty Savage and a slew of other bands in.

The interview was awesome. Cronos was my hero – I had watched him countless times on the “Bloodlust” live video that aired regularly on “Monsters of Rock” on Sky Channel (Tuesday afternoons, if I recall correctlly, 16:00-17:00 CET). Both him and Abaddon were friendly and courteous, patient with my questions and, in the end, with my bag full of CD liners I’d wanted them to sign. I remember their girlfriends hanging around in the background, becoming ever more restive. The end result was a pretty cool interview, which can be found here in all its fanboy glory.

Later that year, Venom released their reunion album, “Cast in Stone”, which was pretty good. Not much later, they split up again. The Venom name was used by Cronos with a varying line-up of guitarists and drummers, whereas Mantas and Abaddon continued as Venom Inc. Right now, I believe we have Venom Inc. with Tony Dolan and two other guys (i.e. no classic former Venom members at all), Mantas Abaddon Venom (a band that as far as I know only performed on Keep it True this year), Mantas Venom (a band that performs slightly more often) and, of course, Venom with Cronos and two other guys (John Stuart “Rage” Dixon on guitars and Danny “Danté” Needham on drums). Cronos is not interested in playing with Mantas and Abaddon again, which I think is an utter shame. I’d give my right nut (or at least some of my money) to see them play together again. Mantas regularly streams on Facebook, where he talks about cats and metal. You can interact with him there, too. I still regularly play my fave Venom albums and occasionally watch the “Seventh Date of Hell” video (this one was actually released on DVD, yes!).

Before I sign off, I’d like to spend a few words on Slayer. I didn’t like them too much when I saw them perform for the first time, during their “Clash of the Titans” tour (with Megadeth, Testament and Suicidal Tendencies) in 1990. I thought they were just a lot of trebley noise (this was before low-fi Norwegian black metal had ever entered my aural cavities). I had their excellent “Show no Mercy” and “Live Undead” on vinyl, but their stage show did nothing for me. I did walk into Jeff, Tom and Kerry at Dynamo Open Air that same Sunday, just long enough to get them to sign CD liners. By then I had got their double live CD “Decade of Aggression”, which caused me to like them a whole lot more. After that, I saw them live at Graspop in 2000 and 2002, Dynamo Open Air 2004 and during their “Big 4” performance in 2011. Yeah, I warmed up to Slayer, though I lost interest in their new music after Dave Lombardo left the first time.

Looking back now, what strikes me most is not the chaos, the backstage confusion or even the interviews themselves, but the simple fact that this music endured. Thirty years is a long time. Festivals disappear, friendships fade, bands implode and reform under various monickers, and heroes inevitably grow older. Yet somehow those old Venom and Slayer records still carry the same electricity they did when I first heard them as a teenager. Not many things survive that intact.

About the T-shirts: “ST NEWS” was the magazine I’d interviewed them for. VIRUS (an acronym of “Vereniging van Intense Rockende Utrechtse Studenten”) was a metal loving student society I was a member of back then.

Synth Sample

Today marks the 40th anniversary of “Synth Sample”, the first production that my best buddy Frank “Antiware” Lemmen and me (“Cronos” of the ACC – Amazing Cracking Conspiracy) ever made on the Atari ST. This was back in the day when I only had a monochrome monitor (early Atari adopters will relate) and preciously little software to play with. We had “Degas” (a drawing program) and plenty of time on our hands, so Frank and me set to making a bunch of pictures (some of them not too bad, even if I say so myself) and then used the “N-Vision” slideshow program to show them with background music. The background music was made using Activision’s “Music Studio”, though none of it by ourselves.

The name came from a bunch of programs on the Commodore 64, where musicians (or sometimes music rippers like Frank and myself) created little compilations of tunes. Usually, those tunes were ripped from games (and also sometimes sent by musicians themselves), and then spread among software swapping contacts. The C64 had many games that were quite naff, but had good music (“Knuckle Busters”, anyone?). Sometimes the games were so difficult that you couldn’t even hear the whole tunes (“The Last V8″…). So if you took the music out you could listen to it without having to play the game. We weren’t really good demo coders, so it was more about the music than about any, shall we say, visual effects. The ACC later released other “Synth Sample” titles on the Atari ST, but by then mainly on colour monitors.

To those of you who have never owned an Atari ST, all this talk of monochrome and colour monitors certainly sounds odd. A short explanation might be in order. Well, 40 years ago you didn’t have limitless colours and huge screen resolutions at 100 Hz. Some monitors had a certain number of pixels and a certain refresh rate at the cost of the number of colours. In the case of the Atari ST this meant 640×400 pixels at 71.25 Hz in black and white (on the monochrome monitor) and two resolutions with more colours, of which the most popular was 320×200 at 50 or 60 Hz with 32 colours (on the colour monitor). These days, an Apple watch has a resolution of 410×502 pixels… Anyway, many Atari ST owners used to have two clunky monitors on their desks, because some stuff only worked on 640×400 whereas practically all games only worked on 320×200…

If you are in a mood to be underwhelmed, check the CODEF version of “Synth Sample” by clicking here (press N to go to the next tune). You can download an image here (for use in an emulator) and the real deal as a ZIP file here (for real Atari ST hardware),

CODEF, by the way, is the Canvas Oldskool Demo Effect Framework, that allows you to create even way more cooler and advanced demo effects using the HTML5 Canvas object – the last and most ‘advanced’ one I ever made, “Out of Bounds”, can be seen here (with Commodore 64 tunes and some nice demo effects).

A Brief History of Tomorrow (review)

In 2019, some of my students read Yuval Noah Harari’s “Sapiens – A Brief History of Humankind”. Not only was I impressed by their ability (and initiative) to read this book, especially considering they were secondary school students, but I also thought I needed to read it myself. It was quite an eye opener, and no mistake. So when a colleague of mine who habitually makes his reading material available for others to peruse shared the ‘sequel’ to the former book I jumped on it.

This time it’s called “Homo Deus – A Brief History of Tomorrow”, published as a paperback in 2017. Boy, did this book fill me with regret that I hadn’t discovered it earlier. Because if there is one thing I could glean from this volume it’s that human development is happening ever faster…and also that this development is not going to be a lot of fun for mankind. Maybe that’s why it has “brief” in the title, whereas I originally reckoned it applied to the size of the book.

If you want to be shocked and surprised by reading the book yourself, do not read any further. Here be spoilers.

So the book quickly dispenses with the thought of the existence of God, although it does mention that some overarching belief system appears to have been (and most likely will continue to be) necessary to allow huge numbers of people to work together. It is this ability to work together that really sets us apart from the rest of the animal kingdom. Not a soul, not free will, not conscience. Harari even continues to deconstruct the principle of there being individuals. Each of us consists of a narrating and experiecing self, neither of which are perfect (in fact they have different agendas that are often at loggerheads). Our memories are highly imperfect without us knowing. Even our feelings can fool us. Feelings are nothing but algorithms, anyway. And literally everything involving algorithms can be done better by computers – if not now, then somewhere in the nearer-than-you-think future. A core thought here was, “Computers don’t need to be perfect, they only need to be better than humans.” And they are. And if they’re not yet, they will be, probably sooner than you think. Some algorithms are more difficult, so it may take more time. But computers can already pretty much do anything, including activities that were hitherto considered uniquely part of the human domain such as painting and composing music. Humans will, by and large, become economically superfluous once computers can take over their tasks (thankfully, I looked up that teachers have a less than 2% chance to be taken over by computers). And once humans are superfluous…well…why care for them? And what are they going to do with their lives all day? Rich people will some day make the cross-over to immortality, perpetual happiness, perhaps awareness within a computer.

The book left me with the the ambivalent feeling of having had my intelligence tickled and made irrelevant at the same time. Not a nice feeling, but it was nonetheless quite a roller coaster ride with a truly mind-melting or eye-opening concept on just about any page. The truth may be unpleasant (and I harbour a deep hope that these developments will take place quite a bit slower than Harari predicts), but I do feel that I am now perhaps a little better equipped to sense (and perhaps cope with) whatever is coming. The next war efforts will not be like what Putin’s attempting, but entirely cyber-based.

Avalanche Magazine

The other day I was looking through some old boxes. It was during this excavation of semi-ancient memorabilia that I found a bunch of old “Avalanche” magazines. This time I did not merely put them back in the box, but decided to scan them.

“Avalanche” was a short-lived pseudo-underground heavy metal magazine,  published  in the Netherlands but written in English. It was started in 1993 by brothers Jesse and Marijn Vermunt, together with some of their friends. I don’t remember how I got in touch with it exactly, but I was part of the writing staff from June 1994 to March 1995. My first contribution was for their first “regular” issue (1994 Issue 1), a Paradise Lost interview I had done together with a friend of mine, Erwin Jorksveld. It later gave me some great opportunities to meet all kinds of musicians, and it got me some real breaks, like visiting the Wâldrock festival to interview Gwar and Obituary, meeting Yngwie Malmsteen and, a few years later, meeting Venom. With subsequent issues I did more interviews and reviews, and was also in charge of spell checking. In the end I got rightfully chucked out because I arrogantly criticised some fellow writers’ English and journalistic abilities in a most unprofessional way. I also disagreed with the editor about him not wanting to use my Dream Theater interview because the band was too soft for the target audience. Well, I guess he had a point ;-).
The magazine sadly folded around the summer of 1995, after one promo and 4 regular issues. The final one was a real corker, very professional, on glossy paper and all. “Avalanche” could really have gone places.

Below you will find complete PDF scans of all issues…

Avalanche Magazine 1993 (promo)
Avalanche Magazine 1994 (issue 1)
Avalanche Magazine 1994 (issue 2)
Avalanche Magazine 1995 (issue 1)
Avalanche Magazine 1995 (issue 2)

P.S. When I Googled “Avalanche Magazine” I discovered that there was another magazine of the same name – an art magazine published by Liza Béar and Willoughby Sharp of which 13 issues were released between 1970 and 1976 (source: Wikipedia). Needless to say, that is an entirely different magazine.

Announcement of new Fear of God / Détente site with Forum

I first heard Fear of God’s “Within the Veil” on 14 March 1992 and I was instantly hooked. In the month after, I saw Fear of God twice, and both times met their vocalist Dawn Crosby. I did not realise it wasn’t the original line-up, but the music was there. To me, “Within the Veil” was the album of 1991 (not Metallica’s black album, though I loved that too back then).I was 24 at the time, and Fear of God struck a chord in my soul despite my rather privileged life.
In autumn 1998 I found a site dedicated to Fear of God maintained by Kevin “Bl00d” Nunn. Oddly enough, I was the one that told him about Dawn’s untimely death nearly two years earlier. Her death affected me deeply. Could I have done anything to prevent it? I had been in touch with her off and on since 1992, but apparently my fan comments had not sufficiently helped her see the bright side of life. I knew she had been a pained, troubled soul.

At the time I discovered Kevin’s tribute site, he barely did anything to update it anymore. So when I asked him if I could take over, I think he happily agreed.

So on 8 December 1998 I launched the first iteration of my version of the site. Since I was not in touch with any members of the original line-up, it focused on the then current incarnation of the band, going by the name of Fog. My main contacts were vocalist John Childs and guitarist Tony Mallory. The domain was jezabelsdreams.com, named after the album released by this band.

Fog dissolved, as it does, and in March 2001 I launched a totally revamped version of the site, inspired by having been on the phone with original guitarist Mike Carlino the winter before. It focused much more on the line-ups that recorded “Recognize no Authority” and, obviously, the seminal “Within the Veil”.

Years later, I happened upon Tony Keastead’s Dawn Crosby fan page on Facebook. We struck up a mutually beneficial exchange of information. When I decided my Fear of God site wasn’t really going anywhere due to lack of time and lack of news, I contacted Tony to ask if he was willing to take it over and become the third webmaster. He agreed, and nearly 17 years to the day after I had re-started the site, he took over. I occasionally visited the site, and was glad to see it was being updated more often than I did.

Late 2019 or early 2020 I visited the site and noticed the domain had expired. There was now no official presence of Fear of God, nor Dawn Crosby, on the web.

During the Corona crisis it occurred to me that I should at least make sure that there was some semblance of a repository of All Things Dawn. This culminated in my registering fearofgod.band (fearofgod.com, my first choice, was taken by some fashion brand). I re-instated the site from a backup, checked out the Wayback Engine Internet Archive to add some of Tony’s latest changes, updated various bits and bobs on the site, and also added a forum.

Now it needs to be said: The new version of the site doesn’t use state-of-the-art web design techniques, so it may not work well on phones or other small screens. But there is for now, and the foreseeable future, a place where fans of Dawn and her bands can find information and, due to this forum, meet.

If you’re interested, visit the site on fearofgod.band. I hope you’ll enjoy the site and that you’ll join the forum if you’re into these bands. I only wish Dawn could have been around to enjoy this part of her legacy.

Nuraloop – The Second Coming

A little over two years ago I received the amazingly wonderful purveyor of sonic ecstasy, the Nuraphone (reviewed here). Almost a year ago I found out the same manufacturer was going to do a much more compact, in-ear-only version, the Nuraloop. Having been utterly impressed by its big-and-burly cousin, I transferred the required pre-order fee without any further thought. Originally planned for last December or January, the release date was moved down quite a bit due to Corona. I was pretty sure it would be worth the wait, though…or would it?

About a week ago I got out of bed and checked my email, finding a confirmation that the device was going to be shipped any day now, and could be expected within 1-7 working days. To my considerable surprise the Nuraloop arrived that same day, early in the afternoon! I eagerly unpacked the item, pleased by the thought that must have gone into the package design. Very functional, very aesthetically pleasing.

The Nuraloop earpods aren’t like many of today’s earpods in that they are not two separate pods. I knew that beforehand, obviously, and didn’t mind that at all. I am always losing things, and to me this just makes them more difficult to lose. An arguable disadvantage is its proprietary charger cable. No standard USB connector on the Nuraloop side. But it is very sexy – it clicks on with its magnet, and can’t be connected wrong due to the magnet’s polarity not allowing it. I am a sucker for these little stylish design touches. It makes for a very positive first impression.

Except for the pods and the charging cable, the packaging also includes eartips in 4 different sizes, a travel case and an analog mini jack cable. Like the charger cable, this mag(net)ically connects to the “Nura” thingamajig in the middle. It is very flexible, like those of its bigger cousin.

First thing you need to do, like with the Nuraphones, is connecting them to your smartphone via Bluetooth and downloading the Nura App. It will then examine your hearing, including its idiosyncracies, and create a Personal Hearing Profile. This takes about two minutes in total (part of which is spent giving you feedback on whether the earbuds are fitting snugly enough).
When it started playing music I was pretty much over the moon with how great everything sounded. That was when I discovered that the ‘Personalize’ option hadn’t even been enabled! Once it had, my jaw literally fell open, a lame “w-o-w” escaping. “Music in Full Colour” they call it, a description that couldn’t be more apt. It’s every bit as impressive as the sound quality of the Nuraphones, however in this case coming from a much smaller set of pods. I was impressed no end, blown away.

The Nuraloop has all the same features as the Nuraphones, including near-identical Active Noise Cancelling (ANC). And the touch buttons have even improved! Whereas the big cousin merely supports separate left/right click/double-click, the Nuraloop buttons support click as well as rotate (making rotating motions with your finger). Much more intuitive and user-friendly than its bigger predecessor.

The Nuraloop really is the full package. It’s everything it promised, every hyperbolic statement come true. I would unreservedly recommend these to anyone who actually loves music.

The Nuraloop retails at € 229 (excluding shipping) from the Nura website (where you can also find out about the features I have not covered here).

The Professor is no longer with us

There are some people you don’t expect to die. Not because you think they’re somehow above the laws of nature, but because they have always been a part of your life, they always contribute in their way. They have effectively become part of your eternal surroundings, like an old oak tree in your garden.

Neil Peart, drummer and main lyricist of Canadian rock band Rush, was such a man. He was there before I was, his band helped me through puberty and youth, his lyrics were brilliant and thoughtful, his music transcended eras and tastes. He was one of the very few musicians I felt a personal connection to, no matter how irrational or idiosyncratic that may be. When I was going through a bad patch I read his “Ghost Rider”, which I guess was the main cement of that connection. I adored his lyrics, admired his drumming, I mean, Neil was one of those legendary artists who was the whole package. A person to look up to, a person that could help you sail the stormy seas of existence.

I guess I, and many others with me, will have to weather life’s storms without him around.

I am not one to send out prayers, but my thoughts in this time of loss go out to Neil’s loved ones as well as his band mates in Rush. And also to the world of progressive rock for which he was a huge source of inspiration.

I feel gutted. Going to put on “Presto”, hoping I will keep it dry during “The Pass”, then go through my angry phase with “2112” at max volume.

Catch the spirit, Neil, catch a fish.

Hurtigruten – an Expected Journey (a.k.a. Norway Quest III)

Whenever you see a 3D Youtube video, you can swipe the video to view the scenery all around. Alternatively you can use the “View on Youtube” button and even watch the video using a VR headset or using a gyro-equipped smartphone.

Monday, 12 August.

Woke up after not having slept well. The bad sleep was probably caused by the anticipation of going on a trip, and not just any trip! Hurtigruten! My wife Ruth and I took just about the first train after 09:00 towards Schiphol airport.
We arrived well in time for Norwegian Airlines flight DY1257, 13:40-15:25 to Oslo. It made me think of the explosive scene in Douglas Adams’ “The Long Dark Teatime of the Soul”:

“The explosion was now officially designated an ‘Act of God’.
But, thought Dirk, what god? And why?
What god would be hanging around Terminal Two of Heathrow Airport trying to catch the 15:37 flight to Oslo?”

Oddly disappointingly, there was no explosion before we managed to board the plane well in time for it to depart well over fifteen minutes late. No explosion, obviously, of course, as it hadn’t been Heathrow, nor even a 15:37 flight. But such is the impression a beloved author can leave on a reader.

We landed at Gardermoen Airport, as opposed to Fornebu, the former airport where ST NEWS co-conspirator Stefan Posthuma and myself had made landfall in December 1989 at the start of what we had grandiosely called “The ST NEWS Norway Quest”.
Lots of things had changed since 1989. Luggage retrieval took mere minutes, which is quite unusual. Oslo Airport is the epitome of modernity, and even two such utter Norwegian-language-n00bs such as ourselves had little trouble finding the Airport Express train in the direction of Drammen (a word which in Dutch is the verb “to nag”, but nothing like the funny false friends we’d read on our way back home!). After the initial shock of the price of the train tickets (425 NOK = nearly 46 Euros) for two half-hour-travel tickets we took the 16:10 towards Drammen. At 16:42 we met Ronny Hatlemark (a.k.a. Ynnor the Divine One from the Days of Yesteryear) at Sandvika station. Ronny had barely changed since the last time I’d seen him during a brief visit of his to Utrecht in May 1998, with Torbjørn “Lord HackBear” Ose. His big smile was but the start of a continuous barrage of hospitality we were to enjoy until we left its warm embrace the day after.
Ronny drove us to what he would no doubt call a “humble abode” but which was really quite a sumptuous dwelling lying against a hill (in the Netherlands no doubt dubbed “a mountain”). We were met by the lovely Ginny and their Australian Cobberdog Walt (named after Whitman, not Disney). After a chat we were treated to a great three-course meal, at the start of which we found out that Ginny was rather a fan of cooking – and Ronny rather a lucky man.
During the meal and the ensuing evening we spoke of politics, language, adults being children with filters, Norwegians being cold cucumbers (or not), the erstwhile Atari ST scene, the current ST scene, education, and a variety of other subjects. Quite a difference from back in 1989, when conversations had centred around hacking, car dating, freezing cold weather, Papillons and stiff water.

Tuesday, 12 August.

During the night I entered the vicious circle of a headache causing non-perfect sleep (for the second night in a row), which in turn caused more of a headache. Thankfully the Hatlemarks were able to supply me with a couple of painkillers that twisted the vile headache’s neck. It was not to re-appear.
Breakfast was no disappointment either, including a re-introduction to (a probably milder version of) Norway’s Brunost (a fairly more pungent and darker version of which Stefan and me had been introduced to nearly 30 years earlier). Ronny and Ginny had prepared a map of Oslo with some places to be and things to do, so we had our day cut out for us.
The morning inevitably led to a situation where, like the Great Bard was wont to write, any many others have since copied, parting was such sweet sorrow. After bidding adieu to Ginny and a tail-wagging Walt, Ronny dropped us off at the nearest Metro station. Our ways parted once more.
Ronny. Awesome dude. Old friend. Fine host. And Ginny is cut from the same cloth – a wonderful couple.

We went towards the centre of Oslo (which they call, of course, “Sentrum”), where we arrived at 11:00. The last time I’d ever really been there was with my then girlfriend in the summer of 1993. Our impression of the capital city of Norway had been, let’s say, unimpressive. We now found out that this was largely caused by the fact that we had only spent an hour’s time between the city’s Railway Station and the Bus Station that was to take us further north, whereas all the interesting stuff is located south of the railroad tracks. So that is where we started our discovery of the nation’s capital now.

We walked towards the harbour, at the east side of which we saw the Opera Building. Its most striking feature was a huge sloping roof which could be walked onto if you wanted to enjoy a view of the harbour unimpeded by traffic and the public at large. The marble, so Ronny proudly claimed via WhatsApp, was the same type as that from which Michaelangelo’s David was chiseled.
As the weather remained quite sunny and dry, we decided to take in a few other sights as well. Next up was Akershus Festning, a 13th-century fortress (also once a school, once a prison). Part of it was being renovated, so we settled by walking around it. Attempts at making a semi-distant selfie with the lone guard were unsuccessful, but at least Ruth managed to hug a tree in a small park specifically designated for people with such tastes. After that we set out towards the Royal Palace, which didn’t press our proper taste buttons so we continued instead in search of a place to press our proper taste buds. That became Brasserie La France (“Gallic cuisine in a traditional setting”). This was yet another baby step towards us learning to cope with Norwegian (perhaps Scandinavian?) prices, though, granted, this wasn’t exacly a backwater street where one might expect modest prices to begin with.

As of this paragraph I will try to abstain from remarks about prices, no matter how Dutch (or, for that matter, Scottish) this behaviour is.

After La France we needed a place to wait until we felt we really needed to get our trolleys back from the railway station lockers and get onto the train to Oslo Airport (“Lufthavn”). That became café Egon, practically next to the station.
Before we started this Norway trip I had started reading Jamie Lendino’s “Faster than Light – The Atari ST and the 16-Bit Revolution”. Although understandably less scene-centric than Marco Breddin’s “Borders” series, it was an interesting read that did mention a few legendary demo screws and, yes, Thalion. Lots of the Atari corporate background, too, with key players being interviewed. While sipping a large Coke at Egon’s, I finished this title and continued with Lendino’s “Adventure – The Atari 2600 at the Dawn of Console Gaming”. I never owned a 2600 and almost everything I read was new – and certainly “back to basics” when you consider the exceedingly limited technical specs that hardware had. An interesting read for sure.
Be that as it may, we now took a cheaper (…) train from Oslo Central Station to the Airport.
At 16:20 we went through security, and I even had to enter some new-fangled cylindrical piece of equipment that may have been an active (or passive) particle airport body scanner.

At 18:24, flight SK4478’s Boeing 737-7000 (thankfully not a 737 Max) ascended up and north towards Kirkenes, one of the most northern towns in Finnmark. When we landed at 20:20, we were glad to have taken warm coats with us – it was 7 degrees Celcius. The airport was a shack in front of hills shrouded in a blanket of clouds. Luggage retrieval, despite the airport basically consisting of one hangar, took a very long time. Thankfully we did manage to catch a transfer bus that drove to the town proper, what with it being about half an hour’s drive away. Checking into Scandic Kirkenes was a bit of a survival-of-the-fittest situation – instead of merely wondering why people had been running from the bus to the check-in desk, I should have joined them and run a bit myself.

Kirkenes itself, at 21:45, was pretty depressing and sad to behold. It wasn’t yet dark, but the streets were utterly deserted. Google had pointed us towards two possible restaurants where the kitchens wouldn’t close until 22:00 or later. The one we got to was “Surf and Turf”, a restaurant where we were the final and last customers of the day. Unfortunately they had run out of King Crab starters that we would have liked, but the spicy reindeer-brunost pasta dish was delicious! Never had reindeer before, but it wouldn’t be the last time.
But Kirkenes at night, well, let’s say it’s easy to imagine youths spending most of their time trying to find an excuse to move Anywhere But There.
Back in the hotel, I finished the 2600 book. It left me with a feeling of admiration for the programmers of the time – in particular the people who founded Activision – and the desire to install a 2600 emulator after getting back home. But first Hurtigruten, and even before that, sleep.

Wednesday, 14 August.

And sleep I did, like a log, before having the excellent Scandic Kirkenes breakfast buffet the reviews on the internet – quite rightly – all rave about. Breakfast on its own is just about enough reason to stay at this hotel if you ever find yourself north of Amsterdam (much in the same way I always advise people to visit Alhambra if they ever go south of Amsterdam).
Ruth usually likes to scavenge local supermarkets to see what local goods are like. One such local goods was something you’d call reindeer jerky (really called “Reinsnacks”, which certainly makes sense). We bought some, and I thought it was quite enjoyable.
We more or less accidentally ran into the transfer bus towards the harbour where the Hurtigruten ship MS Kong Harald lay, waiting for the start of its southward journey to Bergen.

This moment in the story is perhaps opportune to tell you something about Hurtigruten. It is basically a company that, among other things, organises cruises from Bergen to Kirkenes and back. They also do cruises around Greenland, Svalbard (Spitsbergen) and Antarctica. The ships, I am told, do not only cater for tourists but also provide mail and other transport services for the many municipalities on the 1500 miles it covers along the Norwegian coastline. And when I say “Norwegian coastline” I really mean to say “spectacularly formed, wild, rugged, impressive, beautiful collection of fjords that in Norway comprise what other countries would merely call a coastline”.How did I find out about Hurtigruten? This is a question Ruth also asked me. The answer takes me back to 1991, when the band Fear of God released their seminal debut album, “Within the Veil”. Even with Metallica’s black album released that same year, “Within the Veil” was more impressive and generally more awesome. The band’s sophomore album, 1994’s “Toxic Voodoo”, was a whole lot less impressive and generally not quite so awesome. However, it did not prevent me from taking over development of the sortof official Fear of God website previously run by Kevin “Bl00d” Nunn.
You must be wondering how Hurtigruten is going to fit into this extended anecdote. Did the band ever do a “11,204 Tons of Metal” cruise on Hurtigruten? Well, no, but do bear with me.
Once the site got more and more exposure among band fans I got contacted by a guy who was mentioned in the sleeve notes of “Toxic Voodoo” as Germany’s #1 Fear of God fan – Burkhard Krumkühler. Burkhard was (and is) seriously into female-fronted metal bands, as well as Kari Bremnes. Kari is a Norwegian singer who also wrote a song about Hurtigruten (on her album “Blå krukke”, 1989). I had already divulged my love of Norway to him, so Burkhard mentioned Hurtigruten and e-mailed me a link to a video stream of one of those voyages. At that moment, doing a Hurtigruten cruise of the Norwegian coastline became an item on my bucket list. And last Christmas I had saved up enough money to actually book it, albeit a slimmed-down version of just the southbound part. So that’s how Hurtigruten happened for me. I mean for Ruth and me – though Ruth was really just a more or less unwitting (if appreciative) victim.
Here’s the video link Burkhard sent me that hooked me. Beware…it might hook you too!

Back to Kirkenes, around noon. The sky was overcast. In novels, such weather is typically described when introducing a mystery, or a murder, perhaps both. People with rucksacks and/or trolleys, hopefully not all too bent on murder, started gathering on the quay in front of the 1993-built (and 2016-refurbished), 121.8-metre-long, 11,204-tonne, 498-bed MS Kong Harald, named after the reigning monarch of Norway. We noticed right away that the average age of those around us was, um, above the retirement cut-off. Some of the less socially proficient retirees blankly stared at us. It wasn’t until later that day that we spotted a family or two. In total there may have been at most half a dozen pre-teens and about a dozen teens on board.

At 12:25, we had checked into cabin 325, which was directly to the left of the ship’s loading/unloading portal, and the vessel cast off. We were checked in by Jacqueline Seagal – or at least someone who was called Jacqueline and who very much looked like she could be Steven Seagal’s sister. Upon check-in, we got a key card which, after having been linked to my credit card, was also the way to easily make on-board purchases.
Now the cabins need a special mention. They are obviously very compact – especially the shower – but they are also quite luxurious. We had a mid-range cabin on the outside of the ship, so we had a nice view of whatever bit of sea or fjord was available for viewing. And the bathroom floor was heated. There is something intrinsically luxurious and somehow peaceful in being able to, um, relieve yourself while your feet get warmed.
Most of the luncheons we enjoyed while on the Kong Harald were of the buffet variety. You could chose from quite a wide selection of hot and cold dishes, and usually there was quite an extensive choice of local produce. Even if you’d never tasted something before (like I hadn’t ever tried herring in curry sauce), you could just have a little to try, have more if it was, as Borat would say, “success!” Buffets rule. And not only was the variety a big plus, the taste was, too. Obviously, the catering side of Hurtigruten must be supported by a very capable chef and kitchen team. Although most dinners and some lunches were three-course (not buffet) and therefore fixed, there was never any reason other than to praise their talents.

Later that day we left the ship for the first time. In Vardø, the ship stayed for about 45 minutes while us tourists could visit the small local fortress, “Vardøhus Fortress”, a modest museum surrounded by a stone wall, guarded by a statue of King Haakon VII (1905-1957). It is was located on a hillock with a gentle slope. Everyone had to hurry, as you were supposed to be back on the ship 10 minutes before departure.
It was the first time I tried out my school’s Garmin VIRB 360° camera. I had resolved to use this trip to beautiful Norway as a starting point for some really cool 360° video clips to be used in our “Virtual Reality Club” (of which I am the supporting teacher). Nothing except the real thing beats such a video if you want to remember what a certain place was like. Vardø wasn’t spectacular, but it was a good place to try out what the camera could do, and how it functioned. The clips are a bit short, but at leas they give an impression.

We ultimately had to hurry back to make it in time. Mrs Seagal told off a few trembling people who arrived just within the 10-minute-early time slot (“the ship will really leave without you!”). We vouched to be in time, always!
I would like to briefly dwell on my physical state here, in particular of my left heel.
About a year and a half ago I did something to my left foot that caused the heel to feel uncomfortable (and even painful) after a prolonged period of non-use (read: almost every time I get up in the morning). After dance lessons or a day with much walking, it’s at its worst. The oddest thing, to me, is that it feels better after some use. I do intend to go to my GP soon, it’s just that I wasn’t raised to go to the doctor for any little thing. And, really, it’s already feeling a lot better as I am writing this…
Anyway, while Ruth ambled comfortably to and from the ship, I more sortof limped, feeling like old age had finally caught up on me. I was already blending right in with the old folk around us.

In the evening we had our first dinner at the MS Kong Harald. They always strived to provide us with locale produce, like I said earlier, and as we were sailing around Finnmark this included reindeer. Lovely, and much less gamey-tasting than deer for example. Dinner, however, also made us discover the only thing about Hurtigruten that wasn’t quite perfect.
In the Hurtigruten price structure. Everything is divided into Basic, Select and Platinum. We had gone for Select, as that allows you to choose a cabin type, get complimentary tea and coffee, and of course the only thing below oxygen in our Maslow’s hierachy of needs, Wifi. Platinum, among other things, boasts two free excursions, dining á la carte, a welcome basket with champagne, private airport transfers, a visit to the ship’s bridge, priority embarking/disembarking and an activity outdoor clothing package. Together with the obviously much steeper price, the Platinum package includes especially things that are really quite unnecessary. One of the things Platinum also offers, however, is “inclusive drinks package with dinner”. And that, we both felt, is really something that should have been included in the “Full Board” description of Select. This was, in fact, the first time I had been on holiday in a “Full Board” type situation without free drinks all day around.
After dinner we went back to our cabin, as the next day would start early for the “Breakfast at the North Cape” excursion.
I started reading my next book, Hans Rosling’s “Factfulness – Ten Reasons We’re Wrong About the World – and Why Things Are Better Than You Think”. It quickly became apparent that this was a life-changing book, and in fact I think you should definitely also read it. Those who are familiar with me know I am no stranger to hyperbole, but believe me that you should all read this book as quickly as you possibly can. Read a review somewhere, order it right away, read it. It will change your view of the world utterly, and will also make you feel a whole lot better in general. If there is one thing I’d really like you to take away from this whole Hurtigruten story, it’s the utterly non-Hurtigruten-related fact that you ought to read this book. You don’t know it yet, but you owe it to yourself and to the world.
I did not sleep well. Not on account of the book, but on account of wanting to fall asleep as quickly as possible. We knew we had to get up at 05:00.

Thursday, 15 August.

We got an unexpected wake-up call at 4:45, which startled me from a dreamless semi-sleep. As we got woken up 15 minutes before we had personally intended to, a feeling of relaxedness settled over us. No need to hurry, really, was there? The ship arrived at the fog-enshrouded town of Honningsvåg, starting point for our first excursion. Despite our feeling not too hurried, Ruth was the last off the ship and we needed to break into a brisk trot to make it to the bus.

The Finnmark area of Norway barely has any trees and looks barren. Most vegetation you’ll see is moss. Left and right are impressive rock formations, little lakes, a waterfall here or there. Good thing we had those coats, for it was 9 degrees or thereabouts. Guide Petter (or Petr?) spoke of people getting stuck in the snow with the army having to be called in, about the Sami people, and about low average temperatures on sea and on land. I always tell Ruth I could live anywhere as long as there’s good internet, even (or perhaps “especially”) if there are barely any people, but perhaps this area of Finnmark does not fall within my usual sweeping statement.
The occasional reindeer would be spotted close to the bus, which resulted in every single person in the bus whipping out their cameras or smartphones and snapping away. Though Petter predicted it, nobody believed we would soon almost be tired of seeing reindeer. He also told us the water temperature around here was 24 degrees – 8 in the morning, 8 in the afternoon and 8 in the evening :-).

At 06:10 we arrived at the North Cape, at 71º9’53.7552” N latitude. When the bus parked in front of the visitor centre – erected around the spot where Siam (Thailand) king Chulalongkorn (Rama V) carved his name in a rock during his visit in July 1907 – we barely even saw it, that’s how thick the fog was. So the view from the North Cape was correspondingly limited, but we did gather around the globe built on its very northern edge. Although it was too late for the midnight sun and too early for the famed Northern Lights, it felt like a pretty special place to be.

Sorry about the wind noise. I couldn’t figure out how to zero the sound using the VIRB Edit software (which, to be honest, is quite basic).
The visitor centre boasted an exposition of the history of the North Cape, as well as the demise of the German WWII battle cruise Scharnhorst (was sunk off the coast there). We also had breakfast there, where I had my first pickled herring in tomato sauce experience (I’d have more of that on future occcasions!).
At about 07:45 we left the North Cape. The ship had obviously already set sail from Honningvåg while we were doing this excursion, so we would be dropped off on the MS Kong Harald’s next port of call, Hammerfest – which I reckoned was a very cool name for a power metal festival. But we had nearly 4 hours ahead of us, with a short break in Olderfjord (where we resisted buying a reindeer skin, which in hindsight we regretted a little). During those hours Petter regaled us with various facts about Norway, Finnmark, the Sami people, reindeer, and the scorched earth policy of the retreating German Wehrmacht in 1944 (“das war kein Spaß”).
And we saw reindeer. Calves, proudly-antlered bulls, cows, whole herds, and sometimes a bunch that leisurely blocked the road and took a little while to leave. Photo ops galore! I found myself deleting the reindeer pics I had made earlier that day.

It continued to be very foggy and there was a lot of wind (hence so few trees, Petter revealed). We also came past a collection of stones sitting on a coast that looked remarkably like a troll. Norwegians have something with trolls. And vikings. And reindeer. And moose. Ruth was a bit disappointed when we didn’t get to see any of the latter.
A thought about those Vikings…1400 years ago the Viking invasions of Europe were not exactly welcome, and the inhabitants of the European coasts thought they were harbingers of doom, starting the end of the world. They slaughtered and pillaged like there was no tomorrow. Nothing like the romanticized picture of Vikings that was shaped in the last two centuries. How long will it take until mainstream Russians have T-shirts with “Home of Stalin”, or Germans have T-shirts sporting a “Country of the Nazis” slogan?  Just made me wonder. Hopefully more than 1400 years, though.

We arrived at the city of Hammerfest when it was almost noon. Hammerfest has the peculiarly shaped Hammerfest Kirke, re-built by Germans in 1961 after they had burnt it down behind them (as you do) in 1944. Probably not the same Germans. Its odd shape was, apparently, inspired by the typical shape of a stockfish drying flake (the lovely German translation and potentially cool Hangman word being “Stockfischtrockengestell”).

Sorry about the tilted thumbnail, but if you click on it, it will display right.
The ship didn’t leave until 12:30, so we walked through town a bit. We visited the famous “Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society” and got a bunch of picture postcards there, to send to the home front. We did not become members of said society, though we’d heard it was the in thing for tourists to do. We did get the postcards stamped with a special polar bear society stamp, however.

We spent most of the afternoon reading aboard the ship. There was a pretty homey part of deck 7 where you could have a drink, which is what we did. Rosling’s book continued to captivate and educate as I progressed through its chapters. Ruth had been reading Isabelle Allende’s “The House of the Spirits” and continued throughout the trip. The Hurtigruten home red wine was lovely, the dry white one was pretty ordinary.
In the evening, we had upgraded our regular meal to a one-off King Crab meal. After the slight disappointment of not being able to get the King Crab starter in Kirkenes, certainly after we had heard so many stories about King Crab multiplying like crazy and overrunning native species in the fjords, we had figured the Norwegians would be pushing us to eat them left and right, and practically for free (as we’d be doing them a service!). Well, nothing could be further from the truth. Be that as it may, I think we got a whole King Crab, nicely dissected and pre-broken for our culinary delight.
If you’ve never had King Crab, the taste can be compared to lobster but it’s a little sweeter to my palate. The meat is structured much more nicely when compared to regular crab, which makes it much easier to eat. These are first world problems, I know (though Hans Rosling would strongly discourage me from using any such description of a developed country, as well as the word “developed country”), but I can’t help myself.
After dinner, back in the cabin, I finished the “Factfulness” book before going to sleep.

Friday, 16 August.

We woke up before eight. The nights above the Arctic Circle are really much lighter, despite the Midnight Sun having climaxed as far back as June 21st. The curtains in front of our porthole also, let’s say, functioned modestly. The entire night had been extremely comfortable sailing. The ship did not always sail on open sea, instead choosing a more sheltered route between islands and the mainland. The sea was virtually as smooth as a swimming pool.
The next port of call was Harstad, as the ship crept closer and closer to the Lofoten islands to the south. It was only a very short stop, marred by some difficulties disembarking due to an incessant alarm going off to indicate that something wasn’t right with the gangplank mechanism. Ruth in fact had to exit via the car deck door. We barely had enough time to admire the local habit of hanging colourful clothes across the streets and run to a local “Mix” shop to get some Coke and 7up. Did make a 360º video at the quay…

We were back just in time to prevent Mrs Seagal’s wrath.
After Harstad we had our first breakfast on the ship. Like lunch and dinner, this was extremely varied and satisfying. One always tends to eat too much at these breakfast buffets, but it was impossible to resist the temptation of having a warm English-style breakfast, followed by some bits of brie and blue cheese, topped off by some fruit yoghurt. Those bits in the brain that tell you you need to eat as much as possible just in case there’ll be lean years ahead – an ancient survival mechanism – run amok in this type of situation.

Next, we sailed a bit to the northwest so go to the next harbour on the route, Risøyhamn. The voyage took us through the quite narrow Raftsund strait, artificially dredged through where, until not too long ago, one could walk from one island (Andøya?) to another (Hinnøya?) at low tide.
The video clips show the approach through Raftsund Strait and the approach of and departure from Risøyhamn.

We did not leave the ship during its short stop there, and instead elected to have an apres-lunch snooze in our cabin. I started reading my next book – the enlightening, educational and very humorous “Mythos” by the wonderful Stephen Fry. This actor and writer is not admired half enough, I find. This book makes Greek mythology and its tremendous influence on our language accessible to otherwise classically illiterate readers such as myself.

Five o’clock came closer and closer – the time at which we’d enter what expedition team member Heinz called one of the most unmissable places to see during the voyage, Trollfjord. According to legend, this fjord was shaped by one giant axe swing when a troll called Vågakallen got angry when his neighbour’s goats trespassed on his property. We were all urged to go on deck, which is indeed what most people did as we sailed past Olvøya and then rounded Brakøya to enter this fjord. The weather was lovely and just warm enough.

Trollfjord is particularly picturesque due to its narrow entrance among steep cliffs and its compact, visually spectacular and somehow ‘private’ interior. It was made even more special by two sea eagles that we saw soaring between its steep sides. I made a nearly-10-minute 360° clip when the ship exited the Trollfjord, too, some of the most stunning footage I thought. It was a magic and romantic experience, made all the more memorable because I was experiencing it with the love of my life.

Not too long afterwards, dinner included Brunost icecream, which tasted far nicer than I would have imagined back in 1989. And after dinner it was time to join our second excursion, which we had only decided to partake in more or less on a whim earlier that afternoon – the Lofoten Panorama bus excursion which started in the next harbour the boat stopped at, around 18:00, Svolvær.

There was a bit of a kerfuffle around the fact that two buses were needed but there was only one (we later heard this was solved). This seemed to affect the demeanour of our guide somewhat, though it did not affect the content and extent of the information about the Lofoten islands she shared with us while we drove across two major (Austvågøya and Vestvågøy) and a smaller (Gimsøya) islands of the archipelago.
Our first stop was a small fishing village called Henningsvær, located at the far south end of Austvågøya. It could be reached along a practically Caribbean-looking white-sand-with-clear-green-water (but 9 degrees Celcius water temperature) beach and two one-way-traffic bridges. Dusk was upon us, and some rain as well, but just before we left Henningsvær again we were treated to a pretty cool sunset.

The rest of the trip was less eventful, though no less interesting. We took a small (nicotine-induced?) break upon reaching the isle of Gimsøya, and another near Bøstad (with quite a breathtaking view, see below). We drove along the Viking Museum, which was based in or near a large restored viking dwelling, before turning east to the village of Stamsund where the MS Kong Harald lay waiting for us, brightly illuminated in the dark.

After departure, it seemed like we got into a bit of a storm – though no sailor worth his salt would likely describe it as such – with a lot of rain. We read a bit while sitting in the Explorer Lounge (for those among you who harbour bad memories of people getting up early to put their towels on deck chairs near swimming pools, the Explorer Lounge was a slightly less blatant maritime version of that, due to the highly desirable prime seats with panoramic views equalled only by those from the captain’s bridge).

Saturday, 17 August.

Again, we woke quite early. Breakfast happened at 08:30, after which the first event of note was the crossing of the Arctic Circle. Did you know that the position of the Arctic Circle is not fixed? As of 20 August 2019, it runs 66°33′47.7″ north of the Equator. Its latitude depends on the Earth’s axial tilt, which fluctuates within a margin of more than 2° over a 41,000-year period, due to tidal forces resulting from the orbit of the Moon. Consequently, the Arctic Circle is currently drifting northwards at a speed of about 15 metres per year. Nevertheless, a globe on Vikingen island functions as an Arctic Circle Monument. We passed it as breakfast was drawing to a close, at 08:52.

Crossing the Arctic Circle, at least on this particular ship, comes with a certain ritual. Pictures of the northbound journey seemed to indicate this involving ice cold water on one’s head. The southbound version was arguably less traumatic – having a spoonful of cod liver oil with a champagne chaser. We duly partook, and especially Ruth’s contorted face was later immortalised as part of the Hurtigruten Voyage 20 souvenir video.

At 11:51, during the MS Kong Harald brief(!) stay at Sandnessjøen, we ran towards the local “Mix” for something to drink and made it back in time for departure.
After 12:30, the cruise passed a mountain range called “The Seven Sisters”. The range is so called because it features 7 distinct peaks, protecting the hinterland from severe weather phenomena.

Not too long after another very satisfying lunch, we alighted the ship in the village that claims to be practically in the middle of the Norwegian coast, Brønnøysund. Tourist sight number two, according to Google, was the Brønnøysund bridge. According to the usually infallible Google Maps, it was supposed to be located at a 4-minute walk from where we were. It seemed further away as we looked south to where the Fv54 road crossed the water, but nonetheless we set out full of hope.
It was after over 20 minutes’ walking that we decided to see if we could actually try to hitchhike there. This would then hopefully also prevent us from actually having to ascend that bridge (the highest centre span has a clearance of 30 metres above sea level). Also, my left heel was gently killing me. Even more importantly, however, the time the ship would remain in port was slowly running out and we also had to make it back before it left (at the time we thought we had an hour and a half available, though it later turned out we had two and a half hours at our disposal).
A very friendly lady in a large Volvo proved once more that Norwegians are very friendly folk by dropping us off at the other side of the bridge. Stopping in the middle of the bridge was not allowed and potentially dangerous, but ascending the bridge from the other side was much less challenging. In the end we arrived at the highest point of the bridge just a tad earlier than two rather much more sporty looking girls from the ship (who had not hitchhiked) got there. Minor victory!
The view was spectacular enough to warrant whipping out the 360° camera again.

We walked back, if I may add, entirely under our own steam and got something to drink at a local shopping mall as well. We spotted the girls jogging back. One can but frown sometimes, can’t one?

After the ship’s departure, we saw the Brønnøysund bridge from sea level as the ship boldly continued forth to tourist sight number one, Torghatten. Sure glad we didn’t decide to think we were able to walk there – the distance was perhaps 15 kilometres.

On its way to Torghatten, by the by, the MS Kong Harald passed Brønnøysund tourist sight number three, Steinar Breiflabb. It is Brønnøy’s contribution to Artscape Nordland. The sculpture was created by the Swedish/French artist Erik Dietman, and is a landscape installation shaped like a 70 m (230 ft) long stone fish.
Torghatten, then. This is an impressive granite mountain with a naturally formed, 35-metre-high tunnel through its centre. Legend would have a troll-based story behind the tunnel , of course.

It wasn’t crowded at the ship’s stern at all, unlike when we had entered Trollfjord. This may have been on account of most interested people having visited the actual Torghatten tunnel during the day’s excursion, or the gale-force winds that rocked the front of the ship. Nonetheless, we enjoyed each other’s company enough to do a spontaneous little jive, in our warm coats, hoods pulled up, strands of Ruth’s hair whipping. The ship went there and then back out along Brønnøysund, on its way to the next harbour, Rørvik (which was at night, and we didn’t leave the ship).

At dinner, the time until which was spent reading in the Explorer Lounge, we decided to splash out a little on a bottle of Chablis. Because quite a few people were set to leave at the next major harbour, Trondheim, there was some sort of celebration. The main crew, including captain Asbjørn Dalan, were there for a goodbye speech followed by “skol” all around. And I say “all around”, but my enthusiastically lifted glass was pathetically kept hanging by all and sundry. That is, until the friendliest, most-often-smiling waitress, ‘skol!’ed’ me.
At the end of dinner we hadn’t finished our wine. A waitress was happy to put it back in the fridge for a later occasion – such a nice service.

Sunday, 18 August.

We were awoken by the sound of the entry/exit hatch opening creakingly at 06:45. We wanted to go into Trondheim, but there was no reason to hurry as the ship would be in its berth for over 3 hours. So we freshened up, exited the ship and took a taxi towards the Gothic Nidaros Cathedral in the old town. It was Sunday early in the morning so there was barely anyone to be seen. The taxi driver was enthusiastically explaining stuff about the town, in particular about something that could be seen on the left, when a car coming from the right made a condensed version of our lives flash before our eyes. A crash was barely averted, though our cabby could easily have died a horrible death if looks had been able to kill.

We left the cab onto a scene entirely bereft of other life except for literal early birds. It was exactly the kind of atmosphere you find after a long night – something may have happened in the night, but early dawn holds only the promise of tranquillity (or, in the case of a post-party scenario, a hangover). We walked around the cathedral, where we now spotted an anonymous reading Norwegiëtte who remained calmly unperturbed by our camera-centric tourist behaviour. The cabby had also advised us to check out the wooden houses of the old town, so we crossed the Old Town Bridge (“Gamle Bybro”) in its general direction. Very picturesque, again, and thankfully it only rained a little now and then. So much picture postcard material all around us.

Right then and there, surrounded by old Norwegian Trondheim, my iPhone told me it wanted to update to iOS 12.4, so I told it to. The last time I was in Norway it would still be more than a year until I would first use the internet myself, let alone 4G mobile internet. Back then, a current-day modern smartphone such as many of us have right now was the stuff of insanely progressive science fiction. My world consisted of a computer that had 4 megabytes of RAM, and a hard disk featuring 60 Mb worth of storage capacity was just about the best you could get (and you’d pay through the nose for it!). Times have certainly been a-changing.
We decided to head back towards the harbour. Since there was no real hurry, we figured we might find a cab, or we might not. Imagine our surprise when we found our old cabby friend again, still alive, still operating from the same miraculously dent-free car. We decided to tempt the gods by asking him to drive us back to the MS Kong Harald, where we arrived alive and well to have a 9:00 breakfast.

Not long after we started, the ship departed Trondheim. Upon our leaving the harbour, Hurtigruten sister ship Richard With (named after the man who started Hurtigruten in 1893) made berth there. The ships exchanged customary hooting sounds as we sailed through Trondheim Fjord on our way to Kristiansund, the next port of call we were supposed to arrive at late in the afternoon.
We went to the Explorer Lounge again, to read and have some tea. The beautiful coasts of Hitra and Smøle scrolled by on the port side, smooth like the sea under a blue sky with a bright summer sun. I had taken my earpods with me and listened to some metal (My Dying Bride in particular, who I have learned to re-appreciate after reading their extensive history in the great “A Harvest of Dread” box set), playing the occasional bit of air guitar and bobbing my head while continuing in Fry’s “Mythos”. Many moments of profound peace, Ruth reading next to me.
After lunch (where we enjoyed the remainder of the Chablis) the good weather didn’t relent. The sun, gentle breeze and bewitching scenery lured me outside on the deck again to do another 360° video clip, at 14:40 around Grisvàkøya. Honestly, anything less than 24/7 coverage of such a grand voyage is less than it deserves. You see one thing, and up comes the next thing that requires attention and admiration. Really, it would be exhausting if it weren’t also energy-inducingly gratifying.

Recharged and optimistic, I went back in and decided to ask Heinz of the expedition team if, despite my not having Platinum status, it would perhaps be allowed to visit the bridge and create a 360° video clip there. I showed him the camera to prove my worth. For school, you see, as I am after all a teacher and the guy who oversees the aforementioned Virtual Reality club. He dashed my hopes by saying that the day before had been the day on which interested people had been able to visit the bridge, and besides they really officially weren’t allowed to anymore. He said he would ask, but he expected little of it.
Another minor setback was the jacuzzi. We had been rejoiced by the fact that it had been available for use, after the Hurtigruten site having stated that it was unavailable during the week before we boarded. We had planned for a Sunday late-evening session of hot tubbing, but this day we heard that the jacuzzi had to be checked, cleaned and repaired on account of an unspecified member of the guests having had an accident with a piece of illicit glassware.

As afternoon changed into evening and the ship had visited Kristiansund, we sailed past the Atlantic Ocean Road. It’s a stretch of road, largely across bridges built between 1983 and 1989, that is known to have been called “the world’s best road trip” and awarded “Norwegian Construction of the Century”. The bridges often feature in automotive commercials. The MS Kong Harald sailed by at quite a distance from it, so it was difficult to behold from the deck.

After dinner we went to the Explorer Lounge for a bit of light reading and music. Well, “Mythos”, and expedition team’s Giske singing from behind a piano. Although Giske’s folk singing had sounded quite pleasurable when she launched into song at the end of our first day’s information meeting, we decided to give in to Morpheus’ siren song of sleep and head for the cabin after a few of Giske’s tunes. We read a bit there, and I ate my first (and, well, last) bar of Nero Lakrissjokolade (liquorice-filled chocolate).

In the night we sailed past Eggesbø island (past homestead of the late Gard Eggesbø Abrahamsen who died much too early almost exactly 5 years ago), to the east of which lay the village of Ørsta (past homestead of Ronny, where my previous two visits to Norway had largely or partly been spent).
Unfortunately the middle of the night also saw us dock for a meagre half hour at Ålesund. This was literally the one spot where every single person I had spoken to about our Hurtigruten adventure had advised us to climb the stairs up to Fjellstua to enjoy a stunning view of the whole town. Alas, this opportunity only avails itself to travellers on the northbound trip, when the ship stops there for a longer time. Instead we slept.

Monday, 19 August.

We woke up just after seven. This was to be our final day of Hurtigruten and, as can be said so dramatically, the beginning of the end. A look outside our porthole quickly revealed that the drama wasn’t restricted to my mind – it was raining outside.
At 10:00 we had to have vacated our cabin, after which we spent most of the time reading in the homey part at the aft of deck 7. With literally everyone out of their cabins, the ship now seemed quite crowded and it was more difficult to find a place to sit.
Although there had been no farewell celebrations the evening before, all those who were interested could decide to be in a group picture on the back of deck 7. This really brought a bit of a family atmosphere which just made it a bit sadder that the end of our Hurtigruten adventure had begun. As it was unexpectedly dry, Giske organised a quick spell of folk dancing on the same deck.

There was un expectedly positive announcement when I ran into Heinz, who told me it was possible to visit the bridge after all. He reiterated that this wasn’t customary at all, and that we had to be silent as part of the crew was asleep in the cabins adjacent to the bridge. Captain Dalan was very hospitable, if perhaps not entirely fluent in English, and insisted Ruth and I took turns on the captain’s throne. That was unexpectedly cool. I also whipped out the 360° camera for a shot of the bridge, which was what the original intention had been.

After the Last Lunch (doesn’t sound quite as solemn as “Last Supper”, but it sure felt like it) everyone gathered to, well, basically wait for their deck number to be called for debarcation in Norway’s second city, Bergen.
I forgot to make note of the time it was our turn, but I do remember that it was raining. We went through Bergen’s Hurtigruten Terminal to where the luggage had been put. Unfortunately the heavens opened at around that time so some of the luggage (including ours) got pelted on by rain.

Not too long afterwards we managed to hail a cab that brought us to Magic Hotel Solheimsviken, across the water in the south of Bergen. After checking in and ditching our luggage in our room – which was a smorgasbord of curiously slanted and asymmetrical design choices – we went to the nearest Bergen Light Rail (metro) station of Danmarks Plass. It took us straight to Byparken in the centre of town, each stop with its own little tune in its announcement message.
Before any fun could be had, we had to embark on a Quest for Socks. Several days earlier I had made the terminally stupid mistake to mention that Ruth’s son, Oscar, might want a little souvenir, perhaps Norwegian socks? Well, as our stay in Norway was drawing to a close, time was running out. To get it out of Ruth’s head, the best choice would be to find them now. After we had seen some of Bergen’s old town (Bryggen) and found a pair of socks that would hopefully satisfy all those involved, we sat down in a makeshift restaurant at the local Fish Market, run by Age Sørensen and a host of Spanish waiters and waitresses. I finally had whale steak (tastes somewhere between beef and liver). I liked it quite a bit, though it had irritating white thin stringy bits running right through it. This was exacerbated by the restaurant’s flimsy plastic cutlery. Ruth had King Crab which, obviously, was a unanimously positive experience.

Nature called afterwards, so we went to have dessert and find relief at a “Thank God it’s Friday” place. I had the best strawberry milkshake ever there. I am nearly 52, so I’d like to think, perhaps arrogantly, that lends weight to my judgement.
Back to the hotel, in bed by 20:35, probably asleep before nine. Somewhere in the very early morning, Ruth felt between the mattrasses and found a somewhat dried, partly eaten apple. This was about as welcome as the weather prediction which spoke of storms and rain for that day. Bergen, we supposed, was never going to be a highlight of the trip. Bergen was the city that made you forget it’s summer.

Tuesday, 20 August.

Not long after waking up from a very nice sleep, at 08:15, I emailed Kai Holst (he whose family hosted the second half of my 1993 visit to Norway) on behalf of his birthday.
After a pretty decent breakfast we stored our luggage at the hotel and found our way to the centre of town again. We got tickets for one of the city’s “hop-on/hop- off” bus services, “Sightseeing Bergen”. This included a ticket for the “Fløibanen”, a steeply ascending cable train towards the Fløyen mountain to the north-east of the city. At 320 metres, it yields a beautiful view of the whole of Bergen including its harbours. Needless to say, out came the 360° camera. This mountain with its spectacular vistas saved our Bergen experience from becoming unfortunately forgettable. The weather prediction had so far also proved wrong. Although the sky was overcast, it was mainly dry. We didn’t even need to wear our coats, on account of it being warm enough.

Below are two clips from the Fløyen mountain, both from the same vantage point. The images created by the front and back lenses of the camera are sown together by software so you always have fuzziness there. To allow everything to be seen sharply I took one shot with the front lens pointed west and one with it pointed south.

After taking the Fløibanen down, we proceeded with the rest of the hop-on/hop-off bus tour, though we hopped on nor off. We drove past the 15 most noteworthy tourist highlights, including Bryggen, the harbour, the Fish Market, Grieghallen, the university and others. I noticed there being a lot of Teslas on the roads of Bergen, which I suppose is a good thing for both Norway’s affluency and its environmental awareness.

As the trip’s end approached, so did rain. We ate at the same Fish Market restaurant again (paella and scampis) and went back to the hotel to get our luggage. We were running a tad late. The rain had disappeared again, thankfully.
Now we were on the final stretch of our journey that had brought us over 2000 kilometres north and then, much slower, 1500 kilometres south. We took the Bergen Light Rail in the other direction towards its final stop, “Bergen Lufhavn”. This was quite a bit further than going to Byparken, and it was not without its share of poking fun at the Norwegian language.
First we had “Sletten”, the name of the 4th stop. We thought that was very funny, as this basically means “sluts” (as in “promiscuous girls”) in Dutch. The next stop really had us in stitches, “Slettebakken”, this being just a more elaborately insulting Dutch version of the same. The adult filters Ronny had mentioned during the first evening of our trip fell away and we laughed out loud like schoolgirls. What must our fellow train travellers have thought?

At 16:05 we checked in at the airport. This was the first time (for me) that the process was entirely automatic. It seemed like all check-in counter personnel had been effectively made redundant here. We had some farewell fish at “Fiskeriet”. Behind the cash register hung stockfish, looking like they had been scared to a horrific death and then having their intestines opened.
At 17:35, flight KL1190 took as back to our native country, where we landed in warmer and sunnier weather around 19:25. It was the first time ever that the Dutch weather we returned to was actually better than at the holiday destination we had come from. Luggage retrieval was ridiculously fast, and in fact both our trolleys came off the carousel first, and together. We hit home at 21:00.

The Atari ST and the Creative People – Volume III

Today was the day on which I received the third and final Volume in the impressive set of tomes dedicated to the history of the Atari ST and the scene around it. Entitled “Return of the Borders”, this one covers 1994 up to 1998. There is a lot of info on the Falcon, the Jaguar, what happened to Atari (and the brand name), and of course various key games and demos that appeared on those various Atari machines. More strikingly than in earlier Volumes, “Return of the Borders” features coverage of many Atari (or Atari-related) conventions that were organised in the book’s time frame.

Whereas Volume II filled me with a sense of sadness and perhaps even longing, Volume III allows me to look at the whole experience from rather more of a distance. I was never really part of that era, and every page piques new interest in me. Some truly amazing stuff was happening all over the place, and for the first time did I read about all these demos and conventions that I had only really ever heard of. And there they are, front and centre: the people who did it all. Filled with legendary names like DHS, TSCC, Avena, Reservoir Gods, Lazer and Synergy (including a mention of the legendary Crapman game!), page after page sends me into throes of admiration for what these crews did. And once more this Volume is beautifully illustrated, professionally printed and bound. A book for the ages, like its earlier two brothers.
I have to admit I was surprised by 3 pages spent on the final issue of ST NEWS, including pics of a variety of bands wielding the “ST NEWS – THE Atari ST Disk Magazine” T-shirt. It conjured up a smile and a tear, which coincides with the overal sensation of the whole “The Atari ST and the Creative People” series.
Awesome. Respect, Marco!

This book, as well as the earlier two Volumes, can be purchased at www.microzeit.com. If you’d like to read my 2018 review of Volumes I and II, check out this page.